Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Zippity Doo Dah!

I decided to take a "sewing day" today - i.e. ignore the housework I ought to be doing and work on a skirt instead.   It seems like it's been forever since I sewed, even though I made a dress last week and a t-shirt the week before that.  I think that's because both those garments were made with the serger (except for the hem of the dress), so it has been quite a while since I've used my sewing machine.

The skirt started out as a "Murphy's Law" skirt.  I bought some really pretty curry-colored cotton corduroy last week at JoAnn's with the intent of making a Hollyburn.  I was so excited about it that I washed and dried it the very next day, but when I ironed it, I discovered that there was a half-inch wide faded stripe running down the center of two of my three yards!


It doesn't look super noticeable in this picture, but trust me - it really is in real life.  And not only that!  There was a "bald spot" in the middle of the fabric:



Grrrrr.  I guess this $4.49/yard fabric wasn't such a bargain after all.  I considered taking it back, but then decided that I'd use it to make a different skirt because I love the color, and it goes perfectly with that full-sleeved Renfrew I made:


So today I got out my McCall's 6409 (1962), cut everything out and got started.  I'm making the same view I made this spring, the least full one.  Because of that faded spot, I had to shift the zipper from the side seam to the back so I wouldn't have to cut the back on the fold.  I added my 5/8" seam allowance with the help of my quilter's ruler:


Despite its flaws, the fabric is really quite nice - soft and drapey.  I didn't want to add extra bulk at the seam allowances, so instead of serging them like I usually do, I did a stitch-n-pink, which is more in line with the vintage of the pattern anyway:


I wanted to do an invisible zipper like I usually do - it's my favorite kind because of the clean look.  But I didn't have one on hand, and it was raining cats and dogs so I didn't feel like running out to get one.  But I did have a regular zipper, so I settled on doing Sunni's lapped zipper technique from her Craftsy class.  And boy, am I glad I did!

I've been avoiding lapped zippers for years because they always end up looking kind of funky.  But Sunni's technique provides a very clean, professional look.  Check it out:





Have you guys tried this yet?  This is not the way I learned to do it back in the day - it is SO much better.  I never thought I would say this, but I think I might be a Lapped Zipper Convert! 

Also, can I just say:  I'm very proud of myself that I thought things through and made it so the opening is toward my right.  Usually I just dive in without thinking and end up getting things backwards.

I'm going to turn my attention to knitting for the rest of the afternoon, but with any luck, I'll finish this in the next couple days.

27 comments:

  1. That lapped zipper is the bomb! I am an invisible zip girl all the way because other applications always bite. But I've got Sunni's course and haven't done it yet, naughty me. Now I'm going to have to try it. Beautifully done! And commiserations on that fabric, how very annoying.

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    1. Thank you!

      Me too - I'm usually either "invisible" or "exposed" - no in between! But this one opens up some possibilities. Watch the class - she's such a great teacher too!

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  2. I love a lapped zipper - I just put one in on a skirt I'm making for a client (so does that make us lapped zipper sisters for today??). Yours looks lovely! I'll have to check out Sunni's tutorial to see if her instructions are the same as the ones that I follow.

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    1. Lapped Zipper Sisters Unite!!

      My previous method never looked anywhere near this good, so I'm very excited, as you can see!

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  3. That's the best lapped zipper I've seen! I'm going to have to look into that tutorial. Wow!

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  4. bummer about the fabric, i recently got the itch for a hollyburn skirt as well! but that zip insert is beautiful! i watched most of the zipper class thinking i already knew it all and boy was i wrong! i picked up great tips that have made all my zips go in far more smoothly.

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    1. I had the same reaction about the class! I think it's actually been one of the most useful Craftsy classes I've watched!

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  5. Would you believe, that I just spent the last 10 minutes watching lapped zipper tutes? I just put a zipper in a skirt this morning and ended up doing a centered zip on it because I have never been able to get lapped zippers inserted correctly. Invisible? Sure! Fly zips? No problem! Lapped? They strike fear! :)

    THANK YOU! I am putting a lapped zipper in my next skirt.

    Can't wait to see the finished look! I've been itching for a corduroy skirt for fall.

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    1. Hehehe - great minds think alike, eh?

      I was looking through my vintage patterns yesterday, and came across a 1971 jumper dress that would look so amazing in corduroy. That might have to happen!

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  6. Brilliant zip! I love a lapped zip, if you find a tutorial that clicks then I think thay look really smart. Glad you managed to save your fabric :)

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  7. Corduroy is the best! I really like the colour and even more, your description (ie curry)! I've had the zip class for ages and not hit round to watching it. I really must, everyone's lapped zips look so cool but I've been a bit afraid of them...

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    1. Food makes the best descriptors, IMO! Watch the class - it made a big difference for me!

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  8. Not that is a thing of beauty! Apparently I need to finish watching the tutorial! I was taught to do lapped zippers by hand and it's a wee tedious.

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  9. Gorgeous color and it goes perfectly with the Renfrew! Excited to see the final product!

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  10. Your skirt is going to be so pretty! I really like the color and the lapped zipper is just perfect. I've only done invisible zippers. Good point about checking your fabric. I was saved one time by the lady at the cutting counter, but I bought some jersey recently that had a hole in the middle (luckily I was able to cut around it). Can't wait to see this finished and paired with your Renfrew!

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  11. Wow! That zipper looks fantastic! I've got to try that tutorial! Thanks for sharing!

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  12. This is a great skirt! I love the color! And that zipper - WOW! Definitely going to have to go watch that video before my next skirt! :)

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  13. Perfect zipper and a great save on your skirt.

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  14. I like the grey of the zipper with the fabric. The fabric looks pretty despite its little boo boos.

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  15. This is going to be an excellent skirt. I love the color and it really goes well with the blouse.

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  16. That is one beautiful zipper! I think I need to try that!!

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  17. I'm so glad you were able to use that fabric after all. Your zipper looks great! Will you show us a picture of the entire outfit? Pretty please?

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    1. Of course - I wouldn't leave you hanging! Actually, I might end up doing an outfit roundup, because I've found a few other things in my closet that look good with this color. Who knew it would be so versatile?

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  18. That zipper looks better than an invisible zipper! And great work on laying out the material to avoid its flaws. I love corduroy, but have so few corduroy garments (because I can't find what I'd like in rtw, but still don't like to sew).
    -- stashdragon

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  19. I'm loving the zipper! It just looks so perfect and neat. I'm definitely going to have to check out that Craftsy class.

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  20. I'm normally an invisible zip lover, but this one looks fantastic. I've only watched the invisible zip part of Sunny's course, I'm definitely going to watch the other parts as well now.

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