Thursday, August 8, 2013

Changes

Over the weekend, I made up my revised version of Dixie DIY's Ballet Dress.  I'm almost there with the fit.


I took everything down a size from my first version and did a sway back adjustment.  I think I'm finally convinced that this adjustment is a good thing for me.  Take a look at the difference:


I think even with the busy pattern, you can see that there's a lot less excess in the back now.  I took a 1/2" wedge out, but next time I plan to increase that to 3/4" - I feel I need just a smidge more taken out.

Looks better from the front too, having gone to a smaller size.  I much prefer the way the shoulders sit on this one.


Here's a recap of the differences between my first and second versions:

Dress 1:
Bust:  size S
Waist:  size M
Length:  size M

Dress 2:
Bust:  size XS
Waist: size S
Length:  size M
1/2" swayback adjustment
neck binding increased to 19.5"

I had to change my neckline binding because this fabric (a mid-weight/10 oz. cotton spandex similar to this one) is a white background with the navy printed on top.  That means that when it's stretched a lot, the white shows through as stripes.   To determine how long to make my binding, I used a trick I learned from the Sewing Fashion Knits Craftsy class:  measure the entire neckline exclusive of seam allowances, and then multiply that number by 7/8 (.875).  My binding is short enough that it hugs my body, but not so stretched that the white background shows through.


Of course, I used my coverstitch machine to do the hems on the sleeves and skirt (and the serger for everything else).  I hemmed the sleeves before sewing the sleeve seam together - I'm finding  this the easiest way to hem small tubes with the coverstitch machine.  I used 3/8" fusible web applied to the edge of the sleeve, then turned it back the same amount and fused, and finally coverstitched on top of it.  The skirt hem was done the same way, but in the round.


Once I had the dress put together, I was a little disappointed in my polka-dot placement at the waist seam:


Not really much to be done about that, since the waistline of the skirt is curved and the pattern on this fabric is straight lines.  But it's nothing a cute little belt can't camouflage:


I'm pretty happy with how this turned out.  As I said, the fit is almost there.  Aside from taking a little more out in my sway back adjustment, the only other thing I might change is to add some length to the bodice.  As it is, the waist seam sits about 2" above my natural waist.  It looks OK, but makes the placement of the belt a little awkward. 

And now, I'm popping off to lunch with Hubby in my comfy (stretchy) new dress!

36 comments:

  1. Love this little polka dot number. It's amazing what a few little tweaks will do. I had thought that the solid one was a good fit for you when you did it but seeing it next to this one really shows up the little areas where it could have been a little better. The pink belt is very cute with this one and I actually like where it's hitting you. Makes your legs look uber long.

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    1. Thank you! I like where the belt hits too, but I wasn't sure it would stay in place as I moved through the day. But it did! I didn't have to fiddle with it at all! So I'm likely to keep the waistline where it is.

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  2. It's a MUCH better fit now!!! Very cute!

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  3. ack! this dress is sooooo cute! it definitely is a better fit than the first by comparison. i have knit dresses on my mind for fall... i love this one and the lady skater dress by kitschy coo. loving the belt as well, navy and pink is a favorite combo of mine. :)

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    1. Thanks! I'm actually considering getting the fuchsia polka dot as well . . . It looks like these two patterns are about the same, however the Dixie DIY one is a lot less $$. But you'd have to draft your own short or cap sleeves - this one only includes 3/4 length. I could really see making this in a cozy sweater knit for fall . . .

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  4. This looks lovely. You can't beat a pretty, comfy jersey dress in navy and white polka dots!

    The fit is much better than the first one.

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    1. Thanks, Sam! I felt super comfy and cute on our lunch date. But a funny thing happened: later in the day, I happened to notice that a LOT of blue dye had rubbed off on my inside upper arms! And I did prewash the fabric!!

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  5. Really, really cute! This looks great on you!

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  6. So cute! And definitely better fitting. I love the way you put a bright belt with it - gives it a little extra zing!

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    1. Thank you! I'm trying to build up my belt inventory - I bought this one specifically for this dress!

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  7. I love your polka dot version even more. It's really cute!

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  8. This is such a cute polka dot dress, the fit is great and it's perfection on you. Very professional work and lovely look!

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  9. Wow, I never would've noticed a fit issue from the first one until you posted the second next to it. Definitely fits better! And who doesn't love polka dots.
    Great tip on the measuring of the neck band, too. I think I signed up for that class but haven't watched it yet. Thanks for sharing!

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    1. I'm not usually a polka dot person, but I have to admit I felt pretty cute and summery in this dress!

      Honestly, I didn't learn a whole lot new from this class - I guess I'm further advanced than I realized! But it was nice to learn that 7/8 is a good proportion for a binding - I always just took off a couple inches and crossed my fingers!

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  10. OMG - this dress is made for you! It's so excellent. I think the extra bit on the swayback adjustment will make the next version even more freakin' perfect! Well done, G.

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    1. Hahahaha! This dress is made for me! By me!!

      It took me a long, long time to consider the sway back adjustment - it's such a terrible label! Makes me feel like there's something wrong with my back! But I think I'm finally converted.

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  11. This looks so cute on you! And the fit is 1000 times better :) Don't you love it when it works out that way! I love the fabric choice, and your belts accessorize perfectly :)

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  12. Goodness, I really liked the first one but the changes you've made make a huge difference. I think the belt is a nice addition too. And beautifully finished :)

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    1. Thanks, Jacq! I am LOVING the professionally finished look I'm getting with the coverstitch machine - money well spent in my case!

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  13. So cute! I want this dress and the belt is just perfect with it!

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    1. If you lived closer, I'd lend it to you ;-) Although you're fully capable of making your own! I was so psyched when I found this belt to go with it - I love it too!

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  14. This dress is so cute, and the fitting changes you made look great!

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    1. Thanks, Kelly! I'll 'fess up now and admit that I bought another length of this fabric in another color - that's how much I like it!

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  15. I agree with everyone. I just think this is so cute. Perfect adjustments for a great fit.

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