tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59423972770863209162024-02-02T00:11:43.964-06:00today's agendaGailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comBlogger822125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-47337190745194066102016-03-25T13:43:00.000-05:002016-03-25T13:43:15.138-05:00My Slightly DIfferent Forward Shoulder Sleeve Head AdjustmentThis time: picture heavy, word light!! I apologize in advance for the shadows in some of the pictures - it was cloudy when I took these. But I think they're clear enough for you to get the idea.<br />
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I had a few questions about how I adjusted my sleeve head on the Inari dress for the forward shoulder adjustment I did, and I figured it warranted its own blog post. Please keep in mind that this may not be 100% legit - I'm not a professional, and while I've done a fair amount of research on fitting, almost all of that research is geared toward solving my own fitting problems. I've tried a few different things to adjust the sleeve heads after a forward shoulder adjustment, and this one is the one that usually works well for me on my body.<br />
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I also want to give credit where credit is due. I first learned of this type of adjustment from Heather B's blog - you can find <a href="http://handmadebyheatherb.blogspot.com/2013/10/forward-shoulder-adjustments-for-sleeves.html" target="_blank">her tutorial here</a>. This one is pretty much the same, except at the end.<br />
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So, let's get started with the sleeve as it is, unaltered and with the seam allowances marked:<br />
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The first thing I've done is to draw a line perpendicular to the grain line, about half way between the front/back notches and the tip of the shoulder. The exact position isn't important, so you can just eyeball it.<br />
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Next, make a tick mark along that horizontal line, the same distance from the grain line as you adjusted your shoulder seam, toward the front of the sleeve. My forward shoulder adjustment was 1/2", so my mark is 1/2" to the left of the grain line. (note that the front is on the left side on this pattern)<br />
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Then extend that mark, perfectly parallel to the grain line, about an inch above and below the horizontal line.<br />
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Cut along the horizontal line - I use a straight edge and my rotary cutter for speed.<br />
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Slide the upper piece 1/2" (or whatever your forward shoulder measurement is) toward the front of the sleeve. Line up the upper portion of the grain line with the mark you made before. <br />
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Align everything neatly, then tape it together along the cut edge.<br />
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Now we need to fix the sticky-outy and poky-inny bits. This is where my method begins to differ from Heather's. First, tape or glue some extra paper to the back of the pattern piece at the front and back of the sleeve. Then take your hip/armhole curve ruler and find the section that most closely resembles the curve of your sleeve head <i>at the seam line </i>on the top section of the sleeve cap.<br />
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Now shift that curve in a bit, so that it's positioned in the middle of the difference between the seamlines of the top and bottom sections of the sleeve. Make sure the curve blends nicely with the notch and the top of the sleeve cap.<br />
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Use this position to draw in your new seam line. <br />
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Do the same steps to the other side.<br />
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Now add the seam allowances. Because the new seam line is nicely blended at the shoulder and notch, those seam allowances will still be true; you'll gradually be going out onto the extra paper behind. I just use a ruler and make closely-spaced tick marks all the way up the line, then connect them with a solid line.<br />
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Now you can cut along this new edge, trimming away the filler paper.<br />
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Notice that instead of trimming away the entire front "sticky-outy bit" and adding to the back "pokey-inny bit", you're actually trimming a bit from each, since your new line is in between.<br />
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Here is what you end up with: notice how the sleeve cap now looks like it's leaning forward. I'll put the original just below so you can compare.<br />
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I've given it a lot of thought, and I think that the reason this method gives me a better fit than Heather's original method is that I need some extra room in the shoulder joint. Since Heather's adjustment cuts away all the excess (otherwise known as sticky-outy bit) at the front, I don't get quite as good a fit with it as I do with this variation. I also don't need as much extra at the back of the sleeve as her method adds; this way, I'm only adding half that amount.<br />
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So I suggest you give Heather's original adjustment a try if you need to do this adjustment - it's somewhat less work than the way I do it. And then if you feel like you need to refine it a bit more, give this a try. And if you find something else that works for you, please let me know!Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-80458040548921109332016-03-20T10:19:00.001-05:002016-03-20T10:19:12.845-05:00Thinking Out Loud About Fitting<span style="color: red;">WARNING: Picture light, and word heavy! This is for my fellow fitting nerds . . .</span><br />
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Before I get started on this post, I want to mention that this morning I realized I'd left out some information from my first Inari post that I think is pretty important. I've gone back and edited that post, but I thought I'd add it here too:<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; line-height: 18.48px;">You may be wondering why I went to all the trouble of cutting along the seam line for the front and slashing and spreading for the back, rather than just adding some extra to the outside of each cutting line. Sometimes adding to the edge of the pattern works, especially on straighter edges and for smaller additions, and where two adjoining pieces will add the same amount. But in my experiments with fitting over the last few years, I've found that I often make things easier for myself by </span><i style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; line-height: 18.48px;">maintaining the length of the original seam line</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; line-height: 18.48px;">. In both the adjustments above, the length of the seam line remained unchanged, and therefore everything matched up like the original when I went to sew the pieces together. So more and more, I tend to adjust along the seam line when possible.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; line-height: 18.48px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; line-height: 18.48px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; line-height: 18.48px;">To illustrate this point, imagine 2 concentric semi-circles, let's say 1/2" apart. If you could straighten those two lines out, you'd find that the inside line is shorter than the outside line. Now imagine that those two semi-circles are pattern pieces with the inside line being the seam line and the outside line being the cutting line, and you need to add more room. If you just add, say another 1/4" to the outside, your new seam line moves out to correspond - but it is now longer than it was originally! If you did not make a corresponding adjustment to the piece it will be sewn to, they won't fit together.</span><br />
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So, seam line adjustments seem like more work - and they are a little - but they often save me a bunch of frustration. And I get to feel like I really know what I'm doing ;-)<br />
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OK, so now today's post begins :-)<br />
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I think about fitting All. The. Time. It's one of those things where I didn't know that I didn't know, but now that I do know . . . I was perfectly happy for a long time buying and sewing clothes that fit OK, but not great. But once I started to learn how to fix some of the areas that weren't fitting well, I became kind of obsessed with it. <br />
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Add to that the fact that I'm a "Princess and the Pea" kind of girl - seriously, the other day my foot was bothering me and I finally discovered that there was a flax seed in my shoe. A flax seed!! I'm very sensitive to sound and touch - I hate getting my hair cut because it hurts when the hairdresser washes, combs and styles it! So when my clothes are too tight, or dig in certain areas, or shift so that I have to keep yanking them back into place . . . I'm not a happy camper. And that is the main reason that I do all the fitting I do.<br />
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So for quite a while, I've been trying to pay attention to how my clothes feel when I'm wearing them, and apply that to changes I might make when sewing. Scooping that bit out of the front armhole on the Inari is a good example: that feeling had been bugging me for a while on many garments, and it finally filtered through to my brain how to fix it.<br />
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I received a few comments both here and on Instagram to the effect of "Oy - if I have to make that many adjustments, I'm just not going to make that thing!!" I get that, I really do! The thing is, from an aesthetic point of view, a lot of the adjusting I do isn't strictly necessary. It's just what I do to make myself feel more comfortable in my clothes. <br />
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I'm going to give some examples of that in a bit, but first I think it might be helpful for you guys to know my starting point. In addition to having 3 different sizes for bust, waist and hips (not at all uncommon) I also have a LOT of asymmetries in my body - more than most, I believe. For instance, one of my legs is longer than the other (which creates a tilted pelvis, which creates differing hip curves right and left) and the shorter leg has a longer foot to compensate! I have a prominent shoulder blade on the right side only, so if I were going to REALLY make a perfectly fitting garment, I'd have to create different patterns for the right and left sides of my body. I could go on . . .<br />
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To illustrate, here are the adjustments I do - I think you'll be shocked by the sheer number!<br />
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I almost always have to do:<br />
1. Forward shoulder adjustment (and corresponding sleeve head adjustment)<br />
2. Broad back adjustment<br />
3. Sway back adjustment<br />
4. Larger hip adjustment<br />
5. Shorten sleeves<br />
6. Shorten length for skirts, dresses and pants<br />
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I often also have to do:<br />
7. Low round back adjustment (a.k.a. dowager's hump - oy!)<br />
8. Outwardly rotating elbows adjustment<br />
9. Shallow upper chest adjustment<br />
10. Prominent thighs/full seat adjustment for skirts or pants<br />
11. Knock knees adjustment for pants<br />
12. Narrow upper chest adjustment<br />
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Yeah, it's a lot. I don't have to do all of these all the time, but I always have in the back of my mind that this is a menu of changes I might have to choose from.<br />
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I've noticed that how much fitting I have to do depends not only on the style of the garment, but also on the brand of pattern I'm using. I'm sure that comes as no surprise to most of you. While I do enjoy the challenge of fitting, I'm not a glutton for punishment. So for instance, I mostly avoid Colette patterns these days because they just take too much re-inventing of the wheel to work for me. I've found that patterns by Burda and Named are often really good starting points for me, i.e. need less adjusting. I'm having a love/hate relationship with Style Arc at the moment because I love the designs, but have had mixed results with the fit.<br />
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Most of the time when I'm trying out a new pattern for a woven, I'll do a tissue fitting first. The tissue fitting doesn't always diagnose all the issues, but it's a good start for me. For knits and stretch wovens, obviously that won't work, since paper doesn't stretch. So I generally make up a garment using a similar, less expensive fabric. <br />
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In both cases, after I've made my first garment, I wear it a bit and then go back and tweak the fit. My problem is that when I make something I like, I usually want to make five more Right Now!! After I made my Inari dress the other day, I really had to stop myself from immediately cutting out another.<br />
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Now, like I said, a lot of the adjusting I do isn't really necessary for appearance. Once I started to learn to fit, I found that I look at people on the street and assess the fit of their garments AND my reactions to their garments. I often can see where they'd need adjustments, but you know what? It's mostly no big deal - they look fine. And I know that I do too, in a garment that doesn't have optimal fit.<br />
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Here are some examples pulled from things I've made over the last few months. Last week I bought the Grainline Lark pattern. The very first thing I did was to trace out the pieces in size 2, grading to 4 at the hip and removing 2" from the bottom. I also did a small forward shoulder adjustment, 3/8" I think. Here's that top:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUwPJ6aOLhArdPp5IVlxEMMhHBulzmL0dpV1HPmNDPVrkqKHwrgQ3BFdsNFo-WXIF6Z-EuM6o6hjvJPZGt0g6NJOWJUHa4pMWomFP12PJKA8YdLvXAHAycF-2NKYuQ75yYT8NQqgqR4KI/s1600/IMG_20160310_162037693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUwPJ6aOLhArdPp5IVlxEMMhHBulzmL0dpV1HPmNDPVrkqKHwrgQ3BFdsNFo-WXIF6Z-EuM6o6hjvJPZGt0g6NJOWJUHa4pMWomFP12PJKA8YdLvXAHAycF-2NKYuQ75yYT8NQqgqR4KI/s320/IMG_20160310_162037693.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Pretty nice, huh? It's still a little long, but that's because I used a very drapey rayon jersey. The next day I made another one, also navy blue, in cotton/lycra and the fit was much closer and shorter. (I couldn't get a picture because it was too cloudy that day.)<br />
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Then I got curious: what would this pattern look like on me completely unadjusted? So I decided to find out. I made the third one with no adjustments except for the body length - I'm only 5'4" after all! This one is made from rayon/lycra jersey. And it looks fine! It was also comfortable enough for me to wear it for 2 days.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbbuf-5l_8BowXtQpcdkm7GO7a74ol0BGXRrs_lMlPY7hsZk6Afliti1JfoohCf6ojnZQ11DcLW_zML_wX0emr1qqjPYrbrhYvRQnl2CDRsXp8sP12R43nxIa7oc4igpLVZz7HnZ2C7EE/s1600/IMG_20160317_091710132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbbuf-5l_8BowXtQpcdkm7GO7a74ol0BGXRrs_lMlPY7hsZk6Afliti1JfoohCf6ojnZQ11DcLW_zML_wX0emr1qqjPYrbrhYvRQnl2CDRsXp8sP12R43nxIa7oc4igpLVZz7HnZ2C7EE/s320/IMG_20160317_091710132.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Here's another example. I'm exploring French jackets lately. I made my first one in January, all by machine, to see if I liked the style on me before going whole hog with the handmade kind. I used a Burda magazine pattern (03/2012 #109) and did a quick tissue fit, after which I only did a small forward shoulder adjustment. Here's jacket #1:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi00rrMZ16HrGmYTJB1xZnXkuhXH3TQpZ6z-sf0mB4X8ScD7Du2lIKqBJUAWn9EwBFWk6o_F3Td-zANItFBhUjzy3EhgCdzZyxMElxC3Ldx71pB-_gNgLkvD6kaTpQF6LiFEiPkCwZLIFA/s1600/IMG_20160123_153046500_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi00rrMZ16HrGmYTJB1xZnXkuhXH3TQpZ6z-sf0mB4X8ScD7Du2lIKqBJUAWn9EwBFWk6o_F3Td-zANItFBhUjzy3EhgCdzZyxMElxC3Ldx71pB-_gNgLkvD6kaTpQF6LiFEiPkCwZLIFA/s320/IMG_20160123_153046500_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Looks great, IMO! And feels good. But after wearing it a couple times, I decided to refine the fit. For version 2, I narrowed the shoulders 1/2" (unusual for me), took a 1/4" tuck out of the upper chest and added 1" overall to the hem width. Very slight adjustments that produced an even better fit. Good enough that I also used this pattern for the leather jacket I made earlier this month:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4klCUO9AieL-g5XJw9IGQLoDFahvPbW3e17PhJC2pY2H6vtdNckEE6HaiMmGQ52LRmqzUI_hnUpWIzw98MP6_ZvSc829bpkghBnUytqq1-BK84SBJd0ZAuSQfb2yvwpsE3XFyqQPmexc/s1600/IMG_20160308_161511105_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4klCUO9AieL-g5XJw9IGQLoDFahvPbW3e17PhJC2pY2H6vtdNckEE6HaiMmGQ52LRmqzUI_hnUpWIzw98MP6_ZvSc829bpkghBnUytqq1-BK84SBJd0ZAuSQfb2yvwpsE3XFyqQPmexc/s320/IMG_20160308_161511105_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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These are to illustrate my point: do I really NEED all the adjustments? Not necessarily. But do they make the garment look and feel better? Definitely. And I truly enjoy the challenge of figuring out what each new pattern needs. But if I didn't enjoy it, I could totally skip it and it would be fine.<br />
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So for those of you that don't enjoy going to these lengths with fitting - don't! Unless a garment is uncomfortable or doesn't fit at all, don't worry about it! I'm perfectly happy wearing RTW pants and jeans that have wrinkles at the back of the legs. But if I'm making pants or jeans, I do what I can to remove those wrinkles. It's an interesting pastime for me.<br />
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I'll end with another picture of my Inari dress, version one. I like it; it's comfortable enough. I will certainly wear it even though the fit isn't spot on, because the fabric is so pretty.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqrJ17gWxb_T4MmVd6-Oi6Jmn7q80nl1zwq1t1AkdQHjjUK9bAagItr7b8IfRxfGpruXfwKrEbUbFlyX_gHoRuCAGhSd_ftp3VAHTmy_pS2iCRCJxaJtoRm7i_zsj1ROuCLwVH5QKNic/s1600/IMG_20160319_104608559_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqrJ17gWxb_T4MmVd6-Oi6Jmn7q80nl1zwq1t1AkdQHjjUK9bAagItr7b8IfRxfGpruXfwKrEbUbFlyX_gHoRuCAGhSd_ftp3VAHTmy_pS2iCRCJxaJtoRm7i_zsj1ROuCLwVH5QKNic/s320/IMG_20160319_104608559_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Are you a fitting nerd too? I'd love to hear your thoughts on these matters.Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-44661012797480569852016-03-19T21:05:00.001-05:002016-03-19T21:05:20.586-05:00Fitting Inari, part 2I decided not to wait til tomorrow - I don't want to forget what I did!<br />
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OK, so those deep armholes . . . I spent some time looking at the pattern and deciding on an approach. I finally realized that I could just fold out some excess, right across the middle of the armhole both front and back, like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg66jjTbXIuWWrI_N7UnGxHngm3Nz8AqRs2c3Y-GfK0VyMjTQUH0Vk4_85m-BS05GB_CDwstrMYEVTADpTIlMQCzlvo47q_SW9J7mAHAiXt_u0feIwNjQ42f9qKiGm2jWWMuIWqJQdonEQ/s1600/IMG_20160319_145618602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg66jjTbXIuWWrI_N7UnGxHngm3Nz8AqRs2c3Y-GfK0VyMjTQUH0Vk4_85m-BS05GB_CDwstrMYEVTADpTIlMQCzlvo47q_SW9J7mAHAiXt_u0feIwNjQ42f9qKiGm2jWWMuIWqJQdonEQ/s320/IMG_20160319_145618602.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Because I have high armpits, I needed to take it up a lot - I folded out 1" right across the middle of the armhole. The original was pretty straight at that point, so I didn't even have to true up the edges!<br />
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Taking an inch out of the front and back meant I had to do that to the sleeve cap as well. You can see above that I did this in two 1/2" folds rather than one 1" fold. I did it that way so that the truing up was easier. Take a look at the two photos below to see what I mean:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48c9_kLiGJAVdgzpz0eEHhQ41v-aZXpJxssOuf2nF-ooLM0jGF1mgochxozrL22GO-izBteoTQMoianBgChLQTnZ1BNYcdg44LdRY8WZRkd8d8ufkO2ra5dScyoqp5pZYHjFLVFBYKK0/s1600/IMG_20160319_170612993.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48c9_kLiGJAVdgzpz0eEHhQ41v-aZXpJxssOuf2nF-ooLM0jGF1mgochxozrL22GO-izBteoTQMoianBgChLQTnZ1BNYcdg44LdRY8WZRkd8d8ufkO2ra5dScyoqp5pZYHjFLVFBYKK0/s320/IMG_20160319_170612993.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijzPAS9lFfGTD7doAWQpBuuF2PTuo3uhUBhYw2sSN1dfHfbW780KMX-Jy03nkYmnPhJk6BKFuwjh_MvkddO_PWkPIknGEUjpn8aGLD0N_ijJX1c4gTnMZwx6_Ip_Fz50DS6DBNX0VAsc/s1600/IMG_20160319_170557352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijzPAS9lFfGTD7doAWQpBuuF2PTuo3uhUBhYw2sSN1dfHfbW780KMX-Jy03nkYmnPhJk6BKFuwjh_MvkddO_PWkPIknGEUjpn8aGLD0N_ijJX1c4gTnMZwx6_Ip_Fz50DS6DBNX0VAsc/s320/IMG_20160319_170557352.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Much nicer to do it in stages! At this point, I traced a new sleeve, truing up the line. <br />
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The great thing about doing the adjustments this way is that all the notches remained the same and I didn't have to completely redraw the sleeve. I took measurements of the armscye and the sleeve cap seam both before and after doing these adjustments; in the original, the sleeve cap is 3/4" longer than the armscye. In my new version, it is 1" longer. I've found that adding 1/4" doesn't affect the ease too much - these sleeves set in as easily as the original.<br />
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To check this out, I made a quick muslin just of the shoulder and sleeve, extending a couple inches below the bust. No need to make a complete dress to check the fit of the sleeves!<br />
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Version 2 fit pretty well - better than the original. I didn't take any photos because I'm way too old (and smart) to share my exposed midriff on the interwebz. I did notice though that it was pulling toward the back - this is true on the original dress as well, although the weight of the extra fabric helps mitigate this a bit. Shifting toward the back is a sign of forward shoulders, so I went ahead and corrected that as well with a 3/8" forward shoulder adjustment across the entire shoulder seam. Forward shoulder adjustments are standard for me - I really don't know why I didn't do one from the get-go!<br />
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To adjust the sleeve cap for the forward shoulder, I did a slash and slide in the same amount. I cut across the sleeve cap about half way up, then shifted the top toward the front 3/8" like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmI__9GsvUU3clcMacTQTU-gMwypEOXiSA-EyZH-d2buj2dGwukpk33Q6lVUDEgNxFZNxVesS6HwnZv62r8UeAoSMQkO4WVLKAxP8E3QVWOnpG7Fqj3pAoqByUV4nNtGUJhElm6BqZa8g/s1600/IMG_20160319_171257379.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmI__9GsvUU3clcMacTQTU-gMwypEOXiSA-EyZH-d2buj2dGwukpk33Q6lVUDEgNxFZNxVesS6HwnZv62r8UeAoSMQkO4WVLKAxP8E3QVWOnpG7Fqj3pAoqByUV4nNtGUJhElm6BqZa8g/s320/IMG_20160319_171257379.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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(I cut this from the lay plan of the pattern, and didn't realize until after I'd taken the picture and thrown away the pieces that I shifted it toward the back, as the drawing didn't have a double notch for the back. Just imagine that it's shifted toward the front.)<br />
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Time to true up the seam line again - I use my hip and armhole curve to do this. Now take a look at my new sleeve (which now has a reduced cap and forward shoulder adjustment) compared to the original:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByWaw2QRTRH3t0WwWVFHmecp82Jb9msFR5Oi4JbWX5_TzzzNAa1VKuh-lBgHxjhgHlzMEZtsRXtJ9fCEDX8u01_HDh55k2TpEX9iiG7AcEA8QU3I8wKf0a5x7JSYkuERYynwWbeI3Kws/s1600/IMG_20160319_170246828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByWaw2QRTRH3t0WwWVFHmecp82Jb9msFR5Oi4JbWX5_TzzzNAa1VKuh-lBgHxjhgHlzMEZtsRXtJ9fCEDX8u01_HDh55k2TpEX9iiG7AcEA8QU3I8wKf0a5x7JSYkuERYynwWbeI3Kws/s320/IMG_20160319_170246828.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The sleeve seams and notches remain the same as the original, but the shape of the cap above the notches is completely different. Notice how the slope is longer and more horizontal at the back (right side) and shorter and more vertical at the front (left side). This shape gives me a really good fit.<br />
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There was just one more adjustment I wanted to make. It's something I've been thinking about a lot lately and this was the perfect place to try it. On a lot of tops, I often feel like there's too much fabric right at the front of the armhole on the bodice. In other words, my upper chest is narrower than most patterns are drafted for. So this time, I scooped out a little bit of the front armhole - just 3/16". That small amount meant I wouldn't have to worry about the sleeve cap fitting, but it was just the right amount to remove the excess fabric that digs into my arm/shoulder joint. In the photo below, I'm pointing at the amount I scooped out and you can see it in comparison to the original seam line. The original is the purple dashed line, and I've already trimmed the seam allowance to match my new line.<br />
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Here's a look at my new front, compared to the original, where you can also see the amount I scooped out:<br />
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Finally, I added 1" of length in the body to both the front and the back. I'll feel more comfortable with a little more coverage, especially with that vented hem at the front. The pattern gives 2 lengthen/shorten lines: one just below the armhole and another a few inches above the vent. I chose to lengthen at the lower line; if I'd lengthened at the upper line, my width placement for the hip adjustment I showed in the previous post would then be an inch too low!<br />
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By that time, my pattern pieces were a cobbled-together mess! So I retraced everything and drew new pieces for the facings, and it's all set to go for tomorrow (I hope) so I can sew together Version Two. I have a piece of linen I bought last year for culottes that never got made; I think it will be just right for this dress. And if it fits as well as I think it will, I'm hoping that I have enough of a piece of Nani Iro in my stash for version 3! The Nani Iro is a narrower fabric, so I'm not sure it will all fit on the 2 yards I have. Fingers crossed!Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-80776714452585070042016-03-19T18:51:00.000-05:002016-03-20T08:51:16.876-05:00Fitting Inari, part 1Yesterday I made an <a href="http://www.namedclothing.com/shop/inari-tee-dress/?lang=en" target="_blank">Inari Dress</a>. I've been wanting to make this dress for a long time - I love pretty much every version I see, and it seems to look great on every body type. But I had to spend a while figuring out how to fit it. I couldn't find a lot of fitting information online for this pattern, so I thought I'd share what I did in case it's helpful to some of you.<br />
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In Named patterns, I take a size EU 36 at the bust, EU 38 at the waist and EU 42 at the hip. Not usually a problem to grade among these sizes, and Named patterns are a better starting point for my body than some other companies' blocks. The problem here is the unusual shape of this dress: not only does the side seam wrap from the back to the front, but it's a cocoon shape as well! I wanted to preserve that cocoon shape, but didn't have much experience with it, so I had to ponder for a few days.<br />
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I started out by determining how much extra width I'd need for the bottom half, and exactly where. I looked at the finished garment measurements on the pattern and took flat pattern measurements. I also did a tissue fitting and made a mark at the place where I needed to expand. According to all of these, I needed to add a total of about 3" to get the right amount of ease around my hips.<br />
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After looking through all my fitting books, I settled on using two different types of adjustments. For the front, I did a seam line adjustment and for the back I did a slash and spread. Here's what I did:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHE3x2VoKb-30zHJPC-iv-BZK32dl14ehLu9T0LqqYOmE8oxUPfX4Ohb3AV0NFayHkfTChjfuvBsd-kxQ6NWjkRrTzV4TV3IlZwbEoafpicyhCZlwa_lutseJP5hbxwzNzdTJlWC94V8k/s1600/IMG_20160316_153959104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHE3x2VoKb-30zHJPC-iv-BZK32dl14ehLu9T0LqqYOmE8oxUPfX4Ohb3AV0NFayHkfTChjfuvBsd-kxQ6NWjkRrTzV4TV3IlZwbEoafpicyhCZlwa_lutseJP5hbxwzNzdTJlWC94V8k/s320/IMG_20160316_153959104.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Using my rotary cutter, I sliced up the entire side seam line from the hem fold to the underarm seam. At those two places I clipped in little hinges, then clipped little hinges all along that seam allowance every couple inches so that I could curve the seam allowance out. At the mark I'd made where I needed the most room, I pulled the seam allowance out about 1/2", then curved the rest of the seam allowance as similarly as possible to the original shape. I taped all of this to my cutting mat to keep it in place.<br />
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Then I put new paper over it and retraced my pattern.<br />
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For the back, since it already had a slight A-line shape, I thought a slash and spread would be a good fix. This adjustment makes an A-line even more so: compare this shape below to the original, which you can see in the two photos above. It's not too dissimilar.<br />
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For this adjustment, I drew a line from the armpit straight down to the hem, parallel to the grain line. I slashed up this line with my rotary cutter, stopping at the under arm seam allowance, then clipped a hinge into that seam allowance. I swung the whole thing out until I had 1" extra at the place I'd marked, then filled it all in with extra paper. Again, I taped it down and traced a new pattern.<br />
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<span style="color: red;">EDITED TO ADD:</span> You may be wondering why I went to all the trouble of cutting along the seam line for the front and slashing and spreading for the back, rather than just adding some extra to the outside of each cutting line. Sometimes adding to the edge of the pattern works, especially on straighter edges and for smaller additions, and where two adjoining pieces will add the same amount. But in my experiments with fitting over the last few years, I've found that I often make things easier for myself by <i>maintaining the length of the original seam line</i>. In both the adjustments above, the length of the seam line remained unchanged, and therefore everything matched up like the original when I went to sew the pieces together. So more and more, I tend to adjust along the seam line when possible.<br />
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To illustrate this point, imagine 2 concentric semi-circles, let's say 1/2" apart. If you could straighten those two lines out, you'd find that the inside line is shorter than the outside line. Now imagine that those two semi-circles are pattern pieces with the inside line being the seam line and the outside line being the cutting line, and you need to add more room. If you just add, say another 1/4" to the outside, your new seam line moves out to correspond - but it is now longer than it was originally! If you did not make a corresponding adjustment to the piece it will be sewn to, they won't fit together.<br />
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How did it work? Really well! Here's my dress:<br />
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I got exactly the amount of ease I wanted through the hips - loose enough to move, but not so loose that you can't see the shape.<br />
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I'm happy with this first version of the dress - I have to say I was shocked that this shape works for me! This pattern produces a magic dress I think - as I said above, it seems to look good on everybody!<br />
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That said, there were a couple things I wanted to change. The most important is that the armholes on this dress are low. I've seen some other reviews saying the same thing. I'm not surprised that I need to bring them up - it's an adjustment I sometimes have to do. I also think this length is a smidge short for me. This dress is totally wearable, but knowing I could make it better, I started hacking this afternoon. I did a bunch of adjustments to the armhole, sleeve and shoulder and got it to a place where I think it's just about perfect for me. Those adjustments are a lot more involved, so I'll write those up for tomorrow. Stay tuned!<br />
<br />Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-45130397255454490762015-12-19T11:18:00.002-06:002015-12-21T07:30:36.297-06:00Named Olivia Wrap Dress<br />
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I had been dreaming of making this dress ever since the pattern came out early this fall. But I kept putting it off while I pondered how to fit it. In Named patterns, I size in at 36 bust, 38 waist and 42 hip. The tulip shape of the skirt gives you a little wiggle room with this pattern, but I think if you make it too tight, you lose the original proportions of the design.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdcB3jma8Vn3x9_kXfw9v6wNN1EEMkEJSqH2_4GdOdwf99Qi82cEvNs_YG3M2ZbyDK6bxhd8uWBU20Zrnbxe8wjOqCLZTPVlxMlRPPdcDQaaGL0iy7EdPSJkoHqj3Eu6WnFuSqb6uz7lQ/s1600/IMG_1588.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdcB3jma8Vn3x9_kXfw9v6wNN1EEMkEJSqH2_4GdOdwf99Qi82cEvNs_YG3M2ZbyDK6bxhd8uWBU20Zrnbxe8wjOqCLZTPVlxMlRPPdcDQaaGL0iy7EdPSJkoHqj3Eu6WnFuSqb6uz7lQ/s320/IMG_1588.jpg" width="144" /></a></div>
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After a lot of thought, I decided to go with the 36 bust and grade out to 38 for the waist, and then make the entire skirt in size 38 as well. The fit is slightly snugger across my backside than intended, but I still think it's flattering. Note: I wasn't wearing a slip when I took these photos but I did wear a "slipshort," and the back got a bit hung up on it and made those wrinkles at the left hip.<br />
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As you can see, the bodice is designed to be slightly blousey. There are a couple darts on the front skirt, and the waist has elastic as well as the wrap ties. There are on-seam pockets at the hip as well. I was dubious about how this would work but I went ahead and tried them on this dress, which I consider my test version. For once, I followed all the instructions. Against my better judgment, I inserted the pockets as written: the side seams are sewn except at the pocket opening, and then the pocket bags are attached to the seam allowances at the opening, and finally sewn to each other. I like to think that I'm pretty good at precision sewing, but this was really hard for me!! Next time, if I do pockets at all, I'll do them in my normal way of attaching the bags to the front and back pieces first and then sewing the side seams and pocket bags all in one go. My inability to sew the pockets accurately resulted in some holes and misalignments; I was able to close up the holes afterwards by hand, but as you can see in the photo above, there is some bunching at the left hip because I couldn't get that pocket aligned exactly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamy5jmm8RpOV0y0lksOzP-LjTTy0MlF1qc4I-vmRPLYGSTudRDPc5RnQ4y5Y1bvd_xCw9ZMZfbFth-5gSr9oTT0FXRl0t1yvyYdC73596yGK6nyxwqAWea19bNXebI5NToooQHE087GY/s1600/IMG_1590.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamy5jmm8RpOV0y0lksOzP-LjTTy0MlF1qc4I-vmRPLYGSTudRDPc5RnQ4y5Y1bvd_xCw9ZMZfbFth-5gSr9oTT0FXRl0t1yvyYdC73596yGK6nyxwqAWea19bNXebI5NToooQHE087GY/s320/IMG_1590.jpg" width="152" /></a></div>
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I say "next time" . . . I think there will be a next time - I like the pattern and design enough to have more than one of this dress. But I found the sewing of it extremely tedious. First off, I loathe sewing knits on the regular sewing machine, and because of the construction of this dress, there are very few seams that can be sewn on the serger. Secondly, those pockets. Much too tedious. And finally, I find it very frustrating to have to wrangle large stretchy pieces with long, skinny, even stretchier pieces hanging off. By sheer force of will, I managed to complete this dress in 3 days. So, after a cooling off period, during which I'll go back to my comfort zone of hand-tailoring blazers, I may try it again.<br />
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The only other little tidbit to share is that the opening in the side for the tie is quite large - I went back and closed it up by 1/4" each top and bottom to avoid exposing myself.<br />
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The sun came out yesterday, so after I got back from the gym, I quickly put on the dress and snapped a few shots. But even with the sunshine, it's hard to see the details of the dress - really, the lighting in my house is horrible. So I ended up playing around with some of the editing tools in iPhoto to make them more visible. And I decided I quite liked the artiness of it! Here's a before and after example:<br />
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I liked that I could add pink shadows.<br />
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Do any of you intend to make this dress? How do you feel about sewing knits on the sewing machine? Do large, stretchy garments make you frustrated too?<br />
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<br />Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-690337234475189402015-12-07T07:00:00.000-06:002015-12-07T07:00:10.712-06:00Style Arc Stella CoatI've been on kind of a Style Arc bender lately . . . And I've been obsessed with <a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.product_details&product_id=410" target="_blank">this pattern</a> ever since <a href="http://www.stitchedupbysamantha.co.uk/2015/03/minerva-crafts-blogger-network-style.html" target="_blank">Sam made hers</a> last spring. So I finally broke down and bought it a few weeks ago, along with a few yards of <a href="http://www.moodfabrics.com/italian-sand-wool-blend-coating-307841.html" target="_blank">this Italian wool blend coating</a>. I'd really intended to make this coat in a classic camel, but decided to find an outer to go with t<a href="https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p193146_40339x-citron-print-silk-crepe-de-chine" target="_blank">his silk CDC lining</a> I'd bought last month.<br />
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This wrap coat has a slim silhouette. As with my Dotty blouse, I bought the pattern in size 8 to accommodate my shoulders, but of course had to grade out to about a 12 from the waist down. I did many of my typical adjustments after a tissue fitting: shortened the sleeves, did a broad back adjustment, low round back adjustment and sway back adjustment. Although the line drawing shows three panels across the back there is actually a center back seam, which is great for me - when a back is cut on the fold I usually have to convert it to a seam to make the adjustments for my back. All those vertical seams means that there are plenty of opportunities for grading in or out as needed.<br />
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This design is also clever in that the front piece doesn't go all the way to the side. There is a narrow panel at the underarm, so that the on-seam pocket in the "side" seam is actually positioned a bit to the front, placing it just right for easy access.<br />
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I've said this before, but I really love that the seam allowances are marked on Style Arc patterns. The typical seam allowance is 3/8", but I've noticed that the neckline seam allowances tend to be 1/4". Because my fabric was so thick, I took that up to 3/8". It took me a while to get used to this after 40 years of predominantly 5/8" allowances! But I realized that the smaller seam allowance basically means that the seams are pre-trimmed, and I like that a lot.<br />
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On both the Style Arc patterns I've used so far, the sleeve heads have been perfection. The amount of ease is so spot on that the sleeves insert beautifully. The sleeve heads are also shaped with more volume at the back, which is what I need for my forward shoulders. It is so nice - and so novel - to use a sleeve "as written."<br />
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For this pattern, there was a new-to-me concept of using fusible interfacing as the sleeve header. I really liked how this worked for this jacket, which is softer in shape and has little interfacing and no shoulder pads. Something to keep in mind for future projects.<br />
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I liked pretty much everything about the pattern. I didn't love working with this thick wool very much, although I like the outcome. It really didn't want to hold a press, so I ended up topstitching all the seams except the sleeve set-in - which means that I sewed every seam three times. I wasn't so sure about the look of the topstitching, but I was unanimously outvoted when I asked my Instagram friends! In the end I'm happy with it though, and although it added a lot of work to the process, it was still probably less than catch-stitching all those seam allowances down by hand.<br />
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The pattern gives instructions for a bagged lining and even has a couple of diagrams. But I felt more comfortable making the lining and facing into a unit and sewing the whole thing to the outer at the front and collar edges, then closing it up by hand at the sleeve and coat hems. <br />
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I put in the last hem stitches just 15 minutes before I had to get ready to go downtown for a concert Friday evening. It ended up being a warm-ish evening, so I pushed myself to finish. And I have to say, I felt like a million bucks in my new coat and silk Dotty blouse! I did have a little bit of a scare though when the kid next to me on the subway opened up a bottle of some bright red sports drink! You better believe I got up and walked to the other end of the car! I have a feeling I'll be worried about stains every time I wear this coat, but I love it all the same.<br />
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A last note on the length: I did not shorten the body, which surprised me. I'd wanted the coat to come to must below my knees, and that's exactly where it ended up as drafted. It surprised me because at 5'4" I generally do have to shorten things.<br />
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I'm a huge sucker for outerwear, but I think this will have to be my last coat for a while. My closet is crammed full! But I can see making this again in the spring in a cotton twill, maybe in a mid-thigh length.Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com45tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-28948478118681230752015-12-06T07:00:00.000-06:002015-12-06T07:00:04.151-06:00Spotty DottyIt's hard for me to believe that it's been a month since I made <a href="http://gksagenda.blogspot.com/2015/11/sloppy-dotty.html" target="_blank">my first Dotty top</a>. I pondered the fit for a few days, and then made Dotty #2 the following weekend. And it's been hanging on my dresser ever since.<br />
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Part of the reason I haven't been posting as much here is that I rarely feel like doing the whole "photo shoot" thing any more. So much effort! This top has been hanging there waiting for me to get in the mood, but it just hasn't happened. But there are some things I want to say about it, so I've decided just to forge ahead with pictures of it on a hanger instead of on me.<br />
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In my first post about this pattern, I made a list of adjustments I'd planned to do. But in the end, the only one of those I ended up doing was to shorten the sleeves! As I took a good look at how the top fit me, I realized that the armhole was way too deep and that the torso was also too long. Shortening in these two places meant that I could avoid grading out at the hip and doing a sway back adjustment. Here is how it looked after I pinned out these adjustments - it no longer looked like it was swallowing me!<br />
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Taking a tuck out horizontally across the front and back to shorten the armhole meant that I also had to tuck out the same amount on the sleeve cap. Normally, I would just tuck out this amount and smooth out the edge. But this time I decided to try the method recommended in <u>Fitting and Pattern Alteration</u>, and I really liked how this works. I mentioned this book in my last post; it recommends making changes at the seam line rather than the cutting edge, so that the seam lines remain unchanged and everything matches up like it's supposed to when sewing.<br />
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So for this adjustment, I sliced across the sleeve cap at the place where it would match with the tuck I took from the front and back. Then I cut 2 slits vertically, each a bit away from the the apex of the cap, with small clips into the seam allowance to create hinges. I placed one side of the seam line the specified amount (I removed 1/2") down on the seam, then swung out the other to the opposite side. The cap seam line remains smooth and consistent in length when done this way. It's much easier to see what I mean in pictures:<br />
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I love it that Style Arc patterns have the seam allowances marked. It really makes this type of adjustment so much easier.<br />
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Here are the adjustments I ended up doing:<br />
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1. shorten armhole by 1/2"<br />
2. shorten torso by 1"<br />
3. shorten sleeve by 1"<br />
4. shorten cuff by 1/2"<br />
5. outwardly rotating elbow adjustment of 1/2"<br />
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Very different from my original assessment!<br />
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I also made some pattern changes. I increased most of the seam allowances to 5/8". I did this to make the gathering easier, and also because I'd decided to use French seams on my silk crepe de chine. But I did keep some of the smaller seam allowances, so I made myself a key - the different allowances are color coded:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5z9NR2DIeKKTPz1AzmgUnyYLAaekEClewfTQoR787NmVgPrmN4LjUE42I5Vi7NWy2_DQgxamyMsMcjvkAR15gOhYbIu3mezmL4tMh5WMsfO9sNbRhfOIU7Q7-dvQ7eT-ZqKr-cB-ybqA/s1600/IMG_20151205_124458814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5z9NR2DIeKKTPz1AzmgUnyYLAaekEClewfTQoR787NmVgPrmN4LjUE42I5Vi7NWy2_DQgxamyMsMcjvkAR15gOhYbIu3mezmL4tMh5WMsfO9sNbRhfOIU7Q7-dvQ7eT-ZqKr-cB-ybqA/s320/IMG_20151205_124458814.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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If you look at that front piece, you'll see that the neck edge has a cut-on facing that is curved. For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to make that turn back on a fabric with no stretch. So I cut off that section, added some seam allowances, and sewed the facing on separately. Next time though, I think I'll skip the facing completely - I don't really think the top needs it. I'll just use a narrow hem at that edge.<br />
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I wore this top to a concert the other night and felt quite stylish. I snapped this picture for Instagram, but later added a few long necklaces which looked even better:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9g3ky6akFCX8Dc4RgKlLrcdBXECfHFmO1FkNgFmQETV9B2RwXn3y9JMWd4008twSNf0kDhMsqeK83X7HsbtXOt8J3BDUwqDpQ5kzhF8ujX7X3vBGFSw5KyPkBT0ADLkvv7Yl2hDhaG7U/s1600/IMG_20151204_165515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9g3ky6akFCX8Dc4RgKlLrcdBXECfHFmO1FkNgFmQETV9B2RwXn3y9JMWd4008twSNf0kDhMsqeK83X7HsbtXOt8J3BDUwqDpQ5kzhF8ujX7X3vBGFSw5KyPkBT0ADLkvv7Yl2hDhaG7U/s320/IMG_20151204_165515.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'm happy with my fit changes, and can see myself making this top at least once more. I might even make it in a solid color!Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-7502672321171263122015-12-05T10:12:00.000-06:002015-12-05T10:12:06.996-06:00Arcane AdjustmentReaders, do you ever think about how your elbows might be affecting the fit of your sleeves? I never did, until a problem I've had for a long time finally led me to look, page by page, through <u><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Fitting-Pattern-Alteration-Multi-Method-Selection/dp/1563677830/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1449327816&sr=1-1&keywords=fitting+and+pattern+alteration" target="_blank">Fitting and Pattern Alteration</a></u> to find a solution. And the answer turned out to be that I have <i>Outwardly Rotated Elbows</i>! Who knew such a thing even existed?!<br />
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Here's the problem I've had with long sleeves: most of the time, the portion of the sleeve from the elbow to the wrist twists towards the back. I've noticed that it doesn't happen as severely with two-piece sleeves, and on knits it usually doesn't bother me because I often end up pushing those sleeves up. But on shirts and blouses, it really irks me. Here are some examples.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyQ_KuJ9ILzbMvAAdm4P9rI-mdQypblRsxhOkV2B475KAvWCLu3ZHf4eg6auXeBhJrh9GuXphFjhx93firnd9A6wKe7SFcZn282GhssvJWEp-Z9InI5aWiFaLBMoCYOUXnHPqCGPxT08Y/s1600/IMG_20151128_152859589_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVBWwRGi9v1mZuBLXaGZ9l0w3oGIKH1gdnpnuZvyKfBvLcIlQEXNxhHr4a_yc1NMoiBK9xaTLFHANvpR_zIoJACUgvyi2NAGCWF2Pa7EnO_dZdh8wSheqSPNqJoKCfFqUnj2TqUOpduIk/s1600/IMG_20151111_084148.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVBWwRGi9v1mZuBLXaGZ9l0w3oGIKH1gdnpnuZvyKfBvLcIlQEXNxhHr4a_yc1NMoiBK9xaTLFHANvpR_zIoJACUgvyi2NAGCWF2Pa7EnO_dZdh8wSheqSPNqJoKCfFqUnj2TqUOpduIk/s320/IMG_20151111_084148.jpg" width="320" /></a><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyQ_KuJ9ILzbMvAAdm4P9rI-mdQypblRsxhOkV2B475KAvWCLu3ZHf4eg6auXeBhJrh9GuXphFjhx93firnd9A6wKe7SFcZn282GhssvJWEp-Z9InI5aWiFaLBMoCYOUXnHPqCGPxT08Y/s320/IMG_20151128_152859589_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></div>
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The fix is actually easier than figuring out what the problem is. All you have to do is cut up the entire length of the front and back seam lines, and also make a small clip in the sleeve cap seam line to make a hinge. Then swing the back seam out by however much you need and fill in the empty space with some extra paper. Swing the front seam line in so that it overlaps the sleeve by that same amount and attach it. You may have to trim away some of the sleeve if it extends beyond the seam allowance. Doing the alteration this way instead of just adding a bit to the back and taking away from the front at the cutting edge ensures that the seam line remains unchanged and everything will match up nicely. I did a quick little model of the adjustment for you:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSTEp534KyovBpIpEC41i_bMXY4sq7S7Nss1zNKYXsKvm6bGUJ8SIqyut-ZMf9YeK_6BKI7XaLjb8DwT9nDvQ8cB0joweS72pyPGhZS5KsRawGqqRqqutwupzkvJ8PLc2Pae_6VtO6xTU/s1600/IMG_20151205_100326630_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSTEp534KyovBpIpEC41i_bMXY4sq7S7Nss1zNKYXsKvm6bGUJ8SIqyut-ZMf9YeK_6BKI7XaLjb8DwT9nDvQ8cB0joweS72pyPGhZS5KsRawGqqRqqutwupzkvJ8PLc2Pae_6VtO6xTU/s320/IMG_20151205_100326630_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I did this alteration on my second <a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=610&category_id=7&keyword=dotty&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=44" target="_blank">Dotty Blouse</a>, and it really made a difference in the fit of the sleeve - it actually hangs straight from my shoulder now! What a revelation. Since it was my first time doing this adjustment, I was conservative and only moved my seam lines by 1/2". But I think I can go up to as much as 3/4" in the future. It makes such a difference that you can even see it in this picture where my elbow is bent. No twisting!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBNpTVPuNPTWZ6QFj_j3F8_GEljmEaPB9STdgNw8jsRwVz2JNsxJ2V4He6ECjU3aSwzFjUUZCrnS_vBy0kkWpq6FgTagr-0gpYq0TYWkR2gaYgzFXw6jsaMRairOU5YtvKONXACZvaBIg/s1600/IMG_20151205_093152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBNpTVPuNPTWZ6QFj_j3F8_GEljmEaPB9STdgNw8jsRwVz2JNsxJ2V4He6ECjU3aSwzFjUUZCrnS_vBy0kkWpq6FgTagr-0gpYq0TYWkR2gaYgzFXw6jsaMRairOU5YtvKONXACZvaBIg/s320/IMG_20151205_093152.jpg" width="170" /></a></div>
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Now what I haven't experimented with yet is how this works on a shirt like the <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/collections/tops/products/archer-button-up-shirt" target="_blank">Archer</a>, where there are plackets and pleats to deal with. But I will figure it out, because up to this time I've mostly been wearing my Archers with the sleeves rolled up to the elbows because it bugs me so much how they twist!<br />
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And there is a sister adjustment for those of you with <i>Inwardly Rotated Elbows</i>. If you find that your sleeve twists below the elbow toward the front, just do the opposite of what I described above.<br />
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Do any of you have either of these issues with your sleeves? Have you ever considered the rotation of your elbows? I was convinced that my sleeve problems were caused by my forward shoulders, but the forward shoulder adjustment, while it improved the set of the sleeves, never completely remedied the situation. I'm so glad I've finally figured out this piece of the fitting puzzle!<br />
<br />Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com29tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-72574829573117372602015-11-09T14:58:00.000-06:002015-11-09T14:58:27.895-06:00Sloppy DottyNo sewing the last couple weeks, as I had another round of guests followed immediately by a trip out out town. So this weekend, all I really wanted to do was sew. And sew I did, although I got slightly derailed by life and ended up hurrying through this project.<br />
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The project in question is the <a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=610&flypage=flypage.tpl&pop=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=47" target="_blank">Style Arc Dotty Blouse</a>. I've been fascinated by Style Arc for quite a while and have been wanting to try their patterns, so last month I pulled the trigger and purchased a few. Here's how the paper pattern looks: I really liked that it was accordion-folded - so much easier to put back into the envelope!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1yjzDG1BXVgmq5MHkdSEGTK1cDL5t5wDc9VGxZAxGfO0WrpOItp5VwlpakD7UfO_duL2liYNu3PH0Qa2Cx9LBbLJuR2c3UA_I51TijWzg6ZUSxD4RKknWHHjR6h3Ye_LG8USn-PilJg/s1600/IMG_20151107_140204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1yjzDG1BXVgmq5MHkdSEGTK1cDL5t5wDc9VGxZAxGfO0WrpOItp5VwlpakD7UfO_duL2liYNu3PH0Qa2Cx9LBbLJuR2c3UA_I51TijWzg6ZUSxD4RKknWHHjR6h3Ye_LG8USn-PilJg/s320/IMG_20151107_140204.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Because Style Arc patterns are purchased one size only (I got a size 8 for this top), I decided to make a (hopefully) wearable muslin with some super drapey rayon jersey. The description says this pattern can be made in either woven or knit, and since I wasn't sure about the sizing, I thought knit would be a bit more forgiving as a test. Sadly, the jersey wasn't a great quality, so although I intend to wear this top, I know it won't have a very long life; I had to unpick a couple areas and that left a few tiny holes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPnjNBPmREVqqW8SLK4swCTdnAP8nZUnyKlo95L8WTS9lRxreoo7TtvwySfi-OWDbHeBUYUhRYNd7nd6omIPUJMj0Y0U2DqeW-4y6CF0W3oy_98I70zuIVBD0oDXJV5zecKrV1YZfdgFE/s1600/IMG_20151109_080611102_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPnjNBPmREVqqW8SLK4swCTdnAP8nZUnyKlo95L8WTS9lRxreoo7TtvwySfi-OWDbHeBUYUhRYNd7nd6omIPUJMj0Y0U2DqeW-4y6CF0W3oy_98I70zuIVBD0oDXJV5zecKrV1YZfdgFE/s320/IMG_20151109_080611102_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Compare my top with the line drawings on the pattern - there's not nearly as much volume in this blouse as the pattern would lead you to believe. But I like it. However, I won't be able to love it until I make a few fitting adjustments. Here's what I intend to do next time:<br />
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1. Add 2" width at hip - no surprise, as my hip measurement puts me in a size 12<br />
2. Shorten the sleeves, and possibly even tighten the cuff and add a continuous placket and button<br />
3. Swayback adjustment - this will also take out some of the excess length in the back<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDBU2boVNt50qVr0U67J55o8PGSrpAd4ceAuXJ0cWJ0_G6J9jtckmBBAXQ0X7qoso2OTmP7i5o6-zxsCLcIQLT6B9stW0fNhkxMnCliqH2AVKS57XDTwDUPMXDMg3_-seIx-ytZp6WO8g/s1600/IMG_20151109_080552913_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDBU2boVNt50qVr0U67J55o8PGSrpAd4ceAuXJ0cWJ0_G6J9jtckmBBAXQ0X7qoso2OTmP7i5o6-zxsCLcIQLT6B9stW0fNhkxMnCliqH2AVKS57XDTwDUPMXDMg3_-seIx-ytZp6WO8g/s320/IMG_20151109_080552913_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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4. Possibly shorten the whole torso by 1/2" - 1" - undecided about this as yet.<br />
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What surprised me is the adjustments I <i>don't</i> need: I think that even in a woven, I'll be able to get away without doing a broad back or forward shoulder adjustment. Pretty much unheard of for me. That could be due to the fact that I bought a size 8, specifically to accomodate my back and shoulders. My bust falls between the size 6 and the 8.<br />
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Style Arc pattern instructions are notoriously brief, and while I didn't really need them to construct this top, I tried to follow them anyway. I didn't do the greatest job though, and I felt there were a couple things missing that gave me problems later. So I'm glad I used this cheap fabric for my first go - I know what to do differently next time!<br />
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Most of my construction problems had to do with the front facing. This facing is cut on with the front piece and folded back, then sewn into the shoulder and side seams. What the directions neglect to say (and maybe I should have known by default to do) is to finish the facing edge at 3/8" before doing anything else. I didn't realize my error until it was too late, so I ended up fusing my unfinished edge to the top - not a huge deal since it's jersey, but I'll definitely want to do it right the next time. Also, having that excess 3/8" of facing at the bottom side seam meant that it showed at the hem on one side. That's the seam I had to unpick and do again, resulting in some small holes in my jersey. I trimmed as much of the excess facing as I could, then sewed the seam with a slightly wider allowance to cover it up.<br />
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The yoke is attached burrito-style, but after that things get a bit vague. If I'd followed the instructions (such as they are) I would have ended up with an unfinished shoulder seam, like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4th-1RJ5KP2lnPfGUgM-qQT73_CrYvN_ErKfbgjQ8kNo_6Fe65SQtqCnFQPrAmneq806R-peULsFe-IqJ7jFzOFQfIB0E0iT5AsFUOPAF8yK8RGjO1sG0w5HSBlnqVO4j3xqTbFHA31U/s1600/IMG_20151109_085021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4th-1RJ5KP2lnPfGUgM-qQT73_CrYvN_ErKfbgjQ8kNo_6Fe65SQtqCnFQPrAmneq806R-peULsFe-IqJ7jFzOFQfIB0E0iT5AsFUOPAF8yK8RGjO1sG0w5HSBlnqVO4j3xqTbFHA31U/s320/IMG_20151109_085021.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Yuck. Instead, I kept my facing folded onto the front, then wrapped the yoke shoulder seams around it, inside out (so that the right sides of the yoke are facing each other, with the front sandwiched in between). This gave me a MUCH neater finish:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpO9rhD52sMgVxz4DPLdCFsLEfoz05UDxMO5PVEQ-hX-wTLD82VxGmcPx1rA5qIiti_Exfo6TbZE2ZK3lPo5hiIihe5UUeLsu3KJ8G59qnzeF2ve3MyF3lRjr7GCrUr4ZPCKkT-YsqM0E/s1600/IMG_20151108_143616252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpO9rhD52sMgVxz4DPLdCFsLEfoz05UDxMO5PVEQ-hX-wTLD82VxGmcPx1rA5qIiti_Exfo6TbZE2ZK3lPo5hiIihe5UUeLsu3KJ8G59qnzeF2ve3MyF3lRjr7GCrUr4ZPCKkT-YsqM0E/s320/IMG_20151108_143616252.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglb3vkpKcXwPcLQGFgpOLCidYKgj_qSPT9Q4NZlJp_Id8DxuzAzillq9hPv48utPDb2xIn_Y78SGQzWnSMjZzkaPdVo6X7hNm5QMzN116dhVUz3Bv0IwBjj9-_WEiNLvMkcxZEzodsmY4/s1600/IMG_20151108_144155495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglb3vkpKcXwPcLQGFgpOLCidYKgj_qSPT9Q4NZlJp_Id8DxuzAzillq9hPv48utPDb2xIn_Y78SGQzWnSMjZzkaPdVo6X7hNm5QMzN116dhVUz3Bv0IwBjj9-_WEiNLvMkcxZEzodsmY4/s320/IMG_20151108_144155495.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Another problem I had was trying to make gathers in the 3/8" seam allowance. I could only fit 1 row of gathering stitches in such a narrow space. It worked OK for the back:<br />
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But absolutely failed at the sleeve cuff:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBUAPICd919k9xFV2kGw3CMp6iokeH4xyGE6Y55eoLWVpTxS8FZqNoR25wZgN45hCb3v5c-9x0l2P-Ngc7en2wDDv4iYLt_W_xNF5P_8C8PIjI_jGk1_TCSp0NGLbXjMNd2xEkCRtFwlQ/s1600/IMG_20151109_073859493_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBUAPICd919k9xFV2kGw3CMp6iokeH4xyGE6Y55eoLWVpTxS8FZqNoR25wZgN45hCb3v5c-9x0l2P-Ngc7en2wDDv4iYLt_W_xNF5P_8C8PIjI_jGk1_TCSp0NGLbXjMNd2xEkCRtFwlQ/s320/IMG_20151109_073859493_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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So next time I'm likely to convert any seam allowances that need gathering to 5/8". I may even convert all the allowances, since the future versions I have planned are all silk and would benefit from French seams.<br />
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As I mentioned above, the sleeves are way too long on me - no surprise there, as I usually have to shorten sleeves 1" - 2". Because of that failed cuff above, and because this is a test garment, my fix was to cut off the cuff, turn the sleeve back a few times and tack it in place. Good enough for this version.<br />
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I think the line drawing is inaccurate regarding the placement of the shoulder seam. Even on my very forward shoulders, the yoke wraps to the front instead of sitting on top of the shoulder, and this is backed up by how the top lays flat:<br />
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(I guess this is a good time to apologize for the poor quality of the pictures. I had to make a choice between taking the photos with my phone, or waiting who knows how long to write up this post, so I chose the phone.)<br />
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You can also see in the photo above that I coverstitched my facing down. I'm not in love with how it looks - it's too close to the tuck and just looks superfluous. I think I won't need to sew it down in my future versions because the facing edge will be finished, but I didn't trust the fusible web to hold up in the wash.<br />
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Finally, just for the sake of novely, here's how that front piece looks:<br />
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It's so large that I had to tape all 3 of my cutting boards together to cut it out! So I was surprised that the top doesn't have a whole lot of volume when it's on the body.<br />
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I realize this post is rambling, but I did want to get my impressions of my first Style Arc pattern down in writing before I forgot! And although there were a couple things I didn't like, my overall impression is that this is a solid pattern, and I'm looking forward to making it again with my adjustments.Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-13392506763170405632015-10-30T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-30T07:00:00.985-05:00Conclusion (and some outfits)I realized as I was writing all these posts that I should probably state a few caveats. I'm not an expert tailor - or even an expert at sewing. I'm just a lady who really likes to make, and think and read and learn about tailoring. Over the last year of making blazers I've learned a lot of new techniques and discovered some things that work better for me than the instructions given in my pattern. I wrote this series to pass on the things I've learned.<br />
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So don't take my methods as written in stone. I feel strongly that in most things, there isn't one right way - there are a variety of ways. The ways I've presented are the ones that work for me. Maybe they will work for you too.<br />
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That said, I've come to believe that success in tailoring comes down to a few things:<br />
1. Slow, careful, precise work<br />
2. A willingness to redo anything that isn't spot on<br />
3. Pressing<br />
4. Pressing<br />
5. Pressing<br />
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Get the idea?<br />
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I also realized as I was going along that I glossed over some steps. I wavered in my explanations between putting down every. single. thing. I could think of, and the idea that if you're making a blazer, you already know quite a bit about sewing. So if I missed anything that you guys think I should have addressed, please let me know. I've got another blazer planned for next month - hand tailored this time - and I'm planning on photographing the parts that don't overlap with this series. But I can certainly try at that time to add in anything I missed here.<br />
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And because posts without pictures are super boring, here are some Polyvore sets I made for my new navy blue blazer - an item I've been wanting in my closet for a long time. I've already worn it with this outfit and I felt fabulous:<br />
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I'm hoping to wear this one soon:<br />
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Here's a set I made back in the spring. That's how long I've been planning this jacket! I probably won't be able to wear this until next spring now.<br />
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And a couple more:<br />
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Is anybody else on the Polyvore bandwagon? It's one of my favorite toys. I'm not great at making creative sets, but these work for my purposes - they're good reminders of outfits I can make with items in my closet. I'm one of those people who gets stumped about what to wear when it's time to go out. I've really loved having a library of outfits to choose from. It's also fun to look up an item, i.e. "navy blazer," and see how other people would style it.<br />
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All right - I think I have finally exhausted myself on the subject of the Navy Blazer!!<br />
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<br />Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-54715648985817180032015-10-29T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-29T07:00:00.545-05:00Pressing and FinishingThis is it folks - we have reached the end! These last few steps are not complicated, but they do take a fair bit of time. Forewarned is forearmed. Get your podcasts ready before you start.<br />
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Begin to prepare the jacket for its final press by pinning all the way around the collar and front edges. As you pin, work the seam toward the back. Remember that the back is going to change at the break where the lapel turns.<br />
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Now go back and baste the edges into this position with long diagonal stitches. I am strongly biased toward silk thread here as it will not leave any impression on the fabric when pressed. Don't use any knots, just take double stitches when you need to end or start a length of thread; you want to keep everything smooth.<br />
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Now go to the ironing board and press, press, press those edges. Work it as much as you need to to get everything looking smooth and consistent, shaping the jacket as you go. I've been known to spend a good 45 minutes on this step alone :-) Use plenty of steam if your fabric can take it, a press cloth if it needs it, and instead of using the clapper here to flatten the edges, press with your hands or a pressing mitt.<br />
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If the hem wasn't turned up previously, turn it up now and carefully catch stitch it in place with somewhat loose stitches. You want the hem to be able to move with you as you move when you're wearing the jacket.<br />
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Once my hem is stitched down, I go back and use an invisible stitch to secure that bit of Hong Kong facing that is going to peek out below the lining.<br />
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Pin the folded-back lining hem edge to just below the catch stitching on the outer hem. Sew the lining in place with a fell stitch or slip stitch. This will create a jump hem, and you'll see those last few open inches at either side. Invisibly stitch these down to the facing.<br />
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Push the lining sleeves into the outer sleeves, then turn the entire sleeve inside out and fell stitch the lining hem just below the catch stitched hem you made on the sleeves previously.<br />
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Now in order to keep the collar in place, you have to stitch in the ditch again. You'll be stitching from shoulder seam to shoulder seam at the back neck, zigzagging from inside to outside. I admit this part is really tedious - you have to kind of fish around with your needle for each stitch to make sure you get it right in the seam. If you don't, the stitches will show.<br />
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Down to the wire now: mark your buttonhole positions and make the buttonholes, then cut them open and sew on your buttons. If you find that your basting around the edges is in the way when you are making the buttonholes, remove it first. Otherwise, remove the basting at the very end. Or not - you have some leeway here. I usually keep it in until I absolutely have to remove it.<br />
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Give the jacket one more light press and steam to work out any wrinkles from handling . . .<br />
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And VOILA!!<br />
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Go wear your beautiful new jacket! Or just sit there and admire it for a while. That's what I do ;-) I always keep my newest makes hanging from the dresser knobs like that so I can admire them for a while before putting them away in the closet.<br />
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Happy Tailoring!!Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-15377724045949973442015-10-28T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-28T07:00:00.239-05:00Sewing the Lining to the Outer JacketBelieve it or not, we are almost at the end! With the steps in this post, the jacket will really start to come together.<br />
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Start with your outer jacket right side up:<br />
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Then place the lining/facing unit on it, right sides together:<br />
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The upper collar should be a tiny bit bigger than the under collar so that the seam will roll to the underside for pressing. To take this up while sewing, make a tailor's blister at each corner of the upper collar by taking up a scant 1/8" like this:<br />
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You can also mark the pivot points on the collar and lapels if you like - I generally do. Pin your entire upper collar to the under collar, stretching the under collar to fit. Then check to make sure that the place where the collar and lapel meet matches up:<br />
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We're only going to sew the collar right now, but I always pin the entire front edge so that the facing isn't flapping around while I'm sewing. Then once everything is pinned, I fold the lapel back so it's not in the way while I sew the collar:<br />
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Now for some precision sewing: make sure to keep all the seam allowances at the neck out of the way, and sew from the large dot at the left side of the collar all the way around to the large dot on the right. Start <i>exactly</i> on the dot so that this seam meets the neck seam, and don't back stitch. Instead, leave long tails that will get tied together later. Some instructions say to start in the center and work to each end, but I find that going from one side to the other with the upper collar facing up enables me to be more precise.<br />
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Unpin the folded-back lapel and make tailor's blisters at the points on the facing like you did for the upper collar. Starting exactly from the large dot again, and keeping the neck and collar seam allowances well out of the way, sew across the top of the lapel, turn, then all the way down the front and around the bottom curve. Here too, don't backstitch at the beginning, but leave long tails. Stop just before the Hong Kong binding at the bottom of the facing (or 5/8" away from the edge if you didn't do the binding) and backstitch here.<br />
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Carefully turn the work where the collar meets the lapel to make sure that the seams meet up:<br />
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If everything looks good, continue on. If not, go back and fix anything that's off kilter.<br />
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Bring those tails you left (there should be two on each side) together at the intersection and tie in a double knot. You'll need to clip into the neck seam allowance to the dot to do this. You will be able to see where to tie them - it's the place that will have a little hole if you don't tie them together! Once the knot is secure you can clip the tails, but leave an inch or so.<br />
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Remember that when grading seams, the longest seam allowance will be the one to the outside of the garment. Because the facing will flip back at the lapel, the "outside" changes along the front opening. Start the grading by clipping into the seam allowance about half way just where the lapel will start to turn, at the bottom of the roll line:<br />
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From this point down, trim the jacket <i>longer</i> than the facing. From this point up, trim the jacket <i>shorter</i> than the facing. I still like to use pinking shears at the bottom curve, but generally have to make a few more notches to keep the curve from getting lumpy.<br />
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Trim the lapel and collar points away as you would normally do.<br />
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Once all the grading is done, take the whole thing to the tailor's board. Press and clap all these seam allowances open before turning out the jacket. Take advantage of the various curves and points to get a really nice open seam. Take especial care with the collar and lapel points, pressing them open all the way to the point by inserting the pointed end of the board into them firmly before pressing.<br />
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Finally, turn the jacket out carefully, working the curves smooth and gently poking out the points with a point turner.<br />
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At this point we need to do some heavy-duty pressing, so I'll leave that for the next post. But hey - it's almost a finished jacket!<br />
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<br />Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-31076221411794537452015-10-27T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-27T07:00:01.168-05:00Constructing the Lining/Facing UnitThere's no need to go into great depth on this step. Much of the construction is done just like the outer jacket. However, there are a couple things I do differently from the pattern instructions, so I took some pictures to show.<br />
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Depending on your fabric and the finished feel you're going for, you may want to interface the front facing and upper collar. I'd originally intended to leave mine without interfacing, but decided that the lapel could do with a bit more body, so I ironed on some very lightweight fusible (<a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_34&products_id=30" target="_blank">ProSheer Elegance Light</a>).<br />
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Once that's done, stay stitch the entire inside edge of the facing. Here's where my construction differs: I always cut some bias strips from my lining and use them to make a Hong Kong finish at the last 6" of that inner bottom edge. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmIHHgKnsxOQlr51eRKIRO-qbDrSM-pA8aJBizUzHbbDTynjJiJBjueXr7v3rSxDOyYkJIoBQ4dd1nOAMFWh5VueDW_rZoLdq3UjHrhxYp0XGRiQaADrlJHSATevsxNkiWG-w6wtIm9Ik/s1600/IMG_1495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmIHHgKnsxOQlr51eRKIRO-qbDrSM-pA8aJBizUzHbbDTynjJiJBjueXr7v3rSxDOyYkJIoBQ4dd1nOAMFWh5VueDW_rZoLdq3UjHrhxYp0XGRiQaADrlJHSATevsxNkiWG-w6wtIm9Ik/s320/IMG_1495.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Start by sewing the ease pleat on the back piece according to the markings on your pattern. Sew the vertical dart and trim it, then sew all the vertical seams of the lining like you did on the outer and press those and the dart open. No need to use the tailor's board and clapper here :-) <br />
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Finally, sew the front lining edge to the facing, leaving the last 6" of that seam open. Press the lining away from the facing instead of pressing that seam open. I generally sew ALL the vertical seams/darts/pleat and then take the whole thing to the ironing board.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij6BVsxix5H-XsB-1y9aRRkWFiu4TMXpkmixoJ4-tKZzAuM-zNMrweRs6vZuVVR4W4eXo8OXdoUc4p-QWrgVxq63lYoScJJLPZZ0Um5ihyak_P24mPo65OegWBo5RZB8jlHTKZBVtxV0I/s1600/IMG_1496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij6BVsxix5H-XsB-1y9aRRkWFiu4TMXpkmixoJ4-tKZzAuM-zNMrweRs6vZuVVR4W4eXo8OXdoUc4p-QWrgVxq63lYoScJJLPZZ0Um5ihyak_P24mPo65OegWBo5RZB8jlHTKZBVtxV0I/s320/IMG_1496.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sew the shoulder seams and press them open, then stay stitch all around the neck line between the circles.<br />
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Sew the upper sleeve seam and press it open. Then turn back the hem allowance and press it.<br />
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Make your gathering stitches on the sleeve cap, then sew and press open the remaining sleeve seam.<br />
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Pin the sleeve to the lining/facing unit right sides together, matching notches and dots and pulling up the gathering stitches to fit the cap into the armscye. Sew this seam the way you did on the outer, <b><i>with one exception</i></b>: at the underarm, taper the seam allowance between the notches so that there is only a 3/8" allowance at the bottom. You can see in the photo below that I forgot to do this the first time and had to pick out my first seam and redo it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddSmO4B0eyU6Cm7BFB7pJoQYzIU-CBc3_Wz9YNaJU3789NzWs_pnvlXoBZh8QNZKx2F99yrC5wuKJi-H_t-EfS33XbGGCHduYwHjTLHQ2XhHSRwst5XqbmpNrybi1OYlLB_InfJKeq6w/s1600/IMG_1500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddSmO4B0eyU6Cm7BFB7pJoQYzIU-CBc3_Wz9YNaJU3789NzWs_pnvlXoBZh8QNZKx2F99yrC5wuKJi-H_t-EfS33XbGGCHduYwHjTLHQ2XhHSRwst5XqbmpNrybi1OYlLB_InfJKeq6w/s320/IMG_1500.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Bringing up the seam gives the lining a little extra room at the underarm to go up and over the underarm seam allowance on the outer of the jacket. <br />
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Stitch a second line between the notches like you did on the outer, 1/8" from the first, and trim as before.<br />
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Here's my dirty little secret: when I insert the lining sleeves, I don't worry at all about gathers and puckers. No one is ever going to see them, so why fret about it?<br />
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Here's what we've got so far:<br />
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As you can see, at this point I also press up the hem allowance at the bottom.<br />
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Next we attach the top collar. This is done in exactly the same way as we attached the under collar to the outer jacket, so I won't go over it all again. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5wWfSIq35JdCvYh9f-A6RNZZKnfYZ_KinfUu7m27eYAzd3MeN_Ae_Tkgi5zkpVBGtvCtYS34YL9W4U34PsaCnvjilcaOffmMrYroFS6RG4nVEkVmUKBI4TcK-3_PpJy22-_vW3KkaMAk/s1600/IMG_1504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5wWfSIq35JdCvYh9f-A6RNZZKnfYZ_KinfUu7m27eYAzd3MeN_Ae_Tkgi5zkpVBGtvCtYS34YL9W4U34PsaCnvjilcaOffmMrYroFS6RG4nVEkVmUKBI4TcK-3_PpJy22-_vW3KkaMAk/s320/IMG_1504.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don't forget to do this! It's important!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Once that seam is sewn to your satisfaction, clip into the large dot just like you did on the outer:<br />
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Then trim the neck seam allowance, remembering to keep the lapel seam allowance intact. Press it open on the tailor's board.<br />
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Here's how your finished lapel area should look:<br />
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See how that lapel seam allowance can flip all the way up? You need to make sure to clip far enough in so that bit can open up as much as possible. It will make sewing the collar and lapel MUCH easier and help you get a good join at the lapel notch.<br />
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The next step is to join this unit to the outer jacket. We are getting SO close to finishing now!Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-11742986839989144682015-10-26T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-26T07:00:00.545-05:00Sleeve Insertion, Sleeve Heads and Shoulder PadsThere's not really a whole lot in the way of explanation and pictures to this post, but don't be fooled - this step is time consuming! It's a rare occasion when I get a sleeve inserted perfectly the first time. It's not uncommon for me to have to unpick and re-sew sections of the sleeve insertion seam twice. But you really don't want this area of the jacket to be sloppy if you can avoid it. The shoulders and lapel are the focal point of a blazer. So slow and careful work is the motto of the day.<br />
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The pictures I took for this post are from the insertion of the first sleeve on my jacket, and I did indeed have to unpick parts of this one. On this sleeve I basted the seam after pinning it, and I found that I had much better luck on the second sleeve when I skipped the basting and just sewed the pinned-in sleeve. So you may want to try both to see what works for you, or stick with what you know if you have a method you like.<br />
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When you pin in the sleeve, you will of course match up all the notches and dots and then distribute the ease around the cap as evenly as you can. I mentioned in the last post that I have more luck with this when I bring that easing down beyond the dots by 1" or 1.5".<br />
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When sewing the sleeve in, place the work so that the inside of the sleeve is facing upward and the garment side is down, against the foot plate. This time I also used a clear foot to help me see any puckers that were forming. Instead of starting and stopping your seam at the underarm, start and end at the notch to the left of the underarm. On one sleeve this will be the front notch, and on the other it will be the back notch. Avoid the temptation to sew the sleeve in on the free arm with the garment side up! Your finished product will be nicer if you follow the above instructions :-)<br />
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Once you've sewn the seam, check it from the outside to make sure you don't have any puckers. If you do, unpick that section and do it again.<br />
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When it looks as nice as you can possibly get it, sew a second line of stitching from notch to notch at the underarm, 1/8" inside the seam.<br />
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Trim the seam allowance between the notches next to this second line of stitching, but leave the rest of the seam allowance. Keeping the seam allowance around the top of the armhole will contribute to a nice structure at the top of the sleeve. Now take the jacket to the ironing board, and from the inside, press the seam allowance only, extending onto the sleeve itself by no more than 1/8".<br />
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Take your sleeve header and fold it in half to find the center. Pin that center point to the shoulder seam inside the sleeve, lining up the edge of the header with the edge of the fabric. Then pin the sides around the armhole. I extend mine down to where the princess seam is in front and a bit lower than the princess seam in the back. Stitch the header to the seam allowance by machine just inside the sleeve insertion seam.<br />
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Then trim away the excess from the ends by cutting away a curve. Note that with these ready-made sleeve headers, the muslin piece (the longest part) is against the outside of the jacket and the fleece toward the inside. If you've made yourself a shaped sleeve header as I showed in the pattern pieces post, insert it in the same way - the edge of the header will line up with the edge of the fabric.<br />
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Now take your shoulder pad and fold it in half as well to find the center points of both the straight and curved edges. These points will line up with the shoulder seam. Align the straight edge of the shoulder pad with the edge of the fabric in the armhole, just like you did for the header. Then stretch and pin the pad around the armhole. You need to stretch it as you insert it because you'll be inserting it in the opposite curve to how it will be worn on the body. You can pin it in place and try the jacket on to check the placement if you like. But I usually don't - the shoulder pad is just getting tacked to the armhole seam allowance with a running stitch, so it's easy enough to undo and fix if it isn't inserted smoothly. (I've scratched myself with pins too many times while trying on my jacket - I now prefer to just sew the shoulder pad in from the get-go!) Tack in the pad with a firm yet not tight stitch.<br />
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Once your shoulder pad is in a position you like at the armhole edge, pin the marked center on the curved edge to the shoulder seam. Most instructions I've read say to catch stitch the pad to the shoulder seam allowance but I find this to be very fiddly. Instead, I like to stitch in the ditch by hand from the outside. The shoulder seam will be deeper than the other seams because of all the canvas and muslin and the fact that we didn't use the clapper on it, so these stitches won't show at all. I use what is basically a pick stitch here.<br />
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I feel the need to add that although it looks like my sleeve cap is puckered in the picture above, it is not! It looks like it though because I've pushed the sleeve and pad down in order to be able to stitch in the ditch. Here's the real deal after it's all put together:<br />
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I'm really happy with how these sleeves went in - for my purposes, removing the extra ease was the right decision.<br />
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And now the outer is complete! Next we'll be moving on to constructing the lining, and we're not too far from putting the whole jacket together!Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-66114434911564070812015-10-25T10:22:00.000-05:002015-10-25T10:22:01.750-05:00Making the SleevesI'm going to break down assembling and setting the sleeves and then adding the sleeve heads and shoulder pads into separate posts. This will avoid a mega-post and make it easier for you guys to find the information you need in the post list on the Blazer Sew-Along page.<br />
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So today's task is pretty easy. If you haven't marked your sleeve hem line and added interfacing yet, do that now. I also like to press back the hem allowance lightly while the sleeve is still flat, to make things easier once it's sewn together.<br />
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This is the third version of M6172 I've made in cotton. On my previous two, I noticed that there was so much excess ease in the sleeve head that I got tiny gathers when I set my sleeves in. It's interesting to note that I didn't have this problem with either of my wool versions - goes to show how malleable wool fabric is.<br />
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This time I decided to address the excess ease. I measured the seam line of my sleeve head against the seam line of my armscye and found a whopping 2.25" ease! Recommended ease for a fitted jacket is usually 1 - 1.5". Because this was my first time removing ease, I decided to be cautious and removed only 3/4". I did this by bending my measuring tape at my new length around the sleeve head. I noted that the new curve was about 1/4" below the original seam line, so I marked that point. Then, with my armhole curve ruler, I drew a new curve just from the small dots to the shoulder point. After I had determined my new seam line, I added back the 5/8" seam allowance. Here's how my new pattern looked on top of the sleeve which I'd already cut with the original piece:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgehAPeliS2D7TdBWN3Ej_xeSCqBuSsDomIv7GrlVdFBp-TmJ97Kuejjrs60B3TWzL8fzCrYNT4CCB8pBCPpL4rKhjVSnlcSEPlUX-asbcheR-Zahl8z5HWCN5VNt0L-KClAOsoLf7ahrE/s1600/IMG_1480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgehAPeliS2D7TdBWN3Ej_xeSCqBuSsDomIv7GrlVdFBp-TmJ97Kuejjrs60B3TWzL8fzCrYNT4CCB8pBCPpL4rKhjVSnlcSEPlUX-asbcheR-Zahl8z5HWCN5VNt0L-KClAOsoLf7ahrE/s320/IMG_1480.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I trimmed the sleeve pieces to match the new curve, then sewed my 2 lines of gathering stitches on the sleeve head. The pattern instructions say to sew the gathering stitches between the small dots once the sleeve is sewn together completely, but I find it easier to do this flat, and I also find that I get a smoother sleeve insertion when I take my gathering stitches down below the dots by 1" - 1.5".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuOduRF8NM-5XLTz5hxsTY5aZp07ci-siFFnC87dnxHFxGyiQVuDM7huQYmTVX7syXckH0MqTagXsvlVtCm5zo8EZljh1tfxXwrQVUdEr6xxC7Qa5IR_BAvegDG2a_5081mkgaA_SjNjY/s1600/IMG_1481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuOduRF8NM-5XLTz5hxsTY5aZp07ci-siFFnC87dnxHFxGyiQVuDM7huQYmTVX7syXckH0MqTagXsvlVtCm5zo8EZljh1tfxXwrQVUdEr6xxC7Qa5IR_BAvegDG2a_5081mkgaA_SjNjY/s320/IMG_1481.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once the gathering stitches are in, go ahead and sew the second sleeve seam, then take the sleeve to the ironing board and press this seam open. I do this on the sleeve board, but a seam roll will work as well.<br />
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Now we're going to set some ease into the sleeve before sewing it into the jacket. Pull up the gathering stitches until they look about right to fit the armhole. It doesn't have to be exact at this point. Place the sleeve head on the top of a ham and give it a good steam, like so:<br />
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Let the fabric cool off before removing it from the ham. <br />
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Then press up the entire hem allowance. If you pressed this while the sleeve was still flat, it should be easy to just fold this into place on the completed sleeve, but do check to make sure it's even all around.<br />
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Finally, you will save yourself a lot of frustration if you go ahead and hem your sleeves now, before attaching them to the jacket! Lightly catch stitch the hem in place. Don't pull the stitches tight - you do want the hem to be able to have a bit of movement.<br />
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And that's it! Next post, we'll set these babies in :-)Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-36428633703227957502015-10-24T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-24T07:00:00.776-05:00Attaching the Under CollarThis step isn't really difficult, but you do need to concentrate and be as precise as you can. To start, stay stitch all around the neckline from circle to circle. <br />
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Now pin the undercollar to the neckline, right sides together. Match the triangles to the shoulder seams, and match the circles and notches. Clip into the curved neck edge as needed to get the under collar to fit.<br />
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We'll be sewing from circle to circle all in one go. One area that always seems to cause a problem is the very beginning and end of that seam - the curved end of the under collar always wants to shift. If it shifts and you sew it down that way, it will throw off the rest of your collar construction. So I always add extra pins at the collar point to keep everything in place. In the picture below I'm pointing at the edge that likes to shift, and you can see the extra pins in an X formation just to the left.<br />
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Now sew the neck seam with a smaller stitch (2.2 or 2.4) <b><i>making sure to start and stop directly in the center of the circles</i></b>. You will need to backstitch at each end of the seam as well. I like to use a clear foot for this so that I can see what I'm doing.<br />
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Sew slowly, making sure that there are no puckers in the jacket. I always think to myself that I'm just sewing 2" at a time. I stop every 2", feel with my fingers that there are no puckers in the next 2", and then sew on. I do this for all types of collars, not just blazers, and I rarely have to unpick a collar because of puckers. Slow and steady wins the race :-)<br />
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Once this seam is sewn to your satisfaction, clip the jacket neck to the circle, exactly where your stitching starts and stops:<br />
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Clip as close to the circle as you can without cutting into your stitching. The closer you can get, the easier it will be later when we add the facing.<br />
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Trim the seam allowances of both the jacket and the under collar, BUT: <i style="font-weight: bold;">leave the part from the lapel point to the clip you just made untrimmed. </i>That is a seam allowance you will be sewing later!<br />
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After trimming, press this seam open on the tailor's board:<br />
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If your fabric doesn't want to hold the press, you should also catch stitch the seam allowances down now to keep them laying flat.<br />
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Press your neckline seam from the outside as well:<br />
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Next time: sleeves and shoulder pads! And that will make for a complete outer!Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-88989834902249013682015-10-23T10:38:00.000-05:002015-10-23T10:38:54.453-05:00Side and Shoulder SeamsNow that you've had enough time to admire your gorgeous welt pockets, we can move on with the construction.<br />
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At some point, you're going to want to reinforce your hems. There are a variety of ways to do this. For this blazer, I used knit fusible interfacing strips pressed centered on the hem line.<br />
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I chose to do it this way because the finished feel I wanted for the jacket was lightweight with just a bit of body. To keep the bulk down, I pressed on the interfacing keeping it out of the seam allowances. It's easier to do this while the pieces are flat - i.e. before sewing up the side seams.<br />
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Of course, you could also do this right after cutting out your fabric, before sewing up any seams. Depending on your fabric and the finished product you're going for, it may not matter much if you have interfacing in your seam allowances.<br />
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You could also opt to use wigan (my favorite!). I didn't use it on this jacket because the wigan needs to be catch-stitched to the outer fabric. Since my fabric is smooth and tightly woven and I didn't underline it, those stitches would show on the outside. So I used fusible.<br />
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If you choose to use wigan, place it so that 2/3 of the tape is above the hem line and 1/3 is below. Again, you can choose whether to add the wigan to the pieces before sewing any seams, or wait until the entire body is constructed. I also find it helpful to baste along the hem line - it makes it easier to turn the hem later. Here are a couple examples from previous jackets:<br />
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The next step is to sew up the side seams and press them open. At this point here's what you've got:<br />
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Now pin the shoulder seams together, matching up the notches. In general, the front shoulder seam will be a bit narrower than the back, so ease the front into the back. This will be easy to do because these edges are cut on the bias.<br />
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Take a piece of your twill tape (it should be pre-washed and pressed) and line it up with your front shoulder seam line. Make a mark at the end. Then make a second mark 1/4" inside that first mark.<br />
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Stretch the tape along the seam line to that inner mark and pin in place. Adding twill tape to the shoulder seam helps ease the seam in further and stabilize it. <br />
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Sew the seam directly on top of the tape, then cut away the excess.<br />
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Do not trim these seam allowances. Press the seam open over a ham rather than the tailor's board. Because the longer back edge has been eased into the shorter front, the seam should curve toward the front ever so slightly.<br />
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That's all there is to it! Once I got to this point, I placed my jacket and under collar next to each other to admire my work:<br />
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It's really starting to look like a blazer now!Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-36575022092550167012015-10-21T11:02:00.000-05:002015-10-21T11:02:04.881-05:00Inserting the Flap and Finishing the PocketOK, it's time to put it all together!!<br />
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Start by removing the basting that closed the pocket opening. Don't grumble. I know it was only in there for a short time, but it really did make a difference on the quality of the press.<br />
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Slide the pocket flap into the opening.<br />
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From the back, line up the top edge of the flap with the top edge of the welt, like so:<br />
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Pin it in place, and then do the same for the other front. Once you've got both pocket flaps pinned in place, take the time to measure them to make sure they're even. Measure each flap to make sure the left and right sides are the same distance below the welt, and then measure the other flap to ensure that it matches. Taking the time to make sure everything matches up will really take your finish up a notch.<br />
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After making any adjustments, baste the flaps to that welt seam allowance. <br />
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Now we'll add the pocket bag. We're going to start from the bottom. Pin the right side of the bottom edge of the pocket bag to the edge of the bottom welt. The bottom of the pocket bag is the side that doesn't have the piece of outer fabric sewn to it. Here's how it will look:<br />
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We need to sew that bag to the welt, so flip the top half of the jacket out of the way:<br />
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Then sew the bag to the welt edge all the way from side to side. Sew from the welt side, as close to the welt stitching line as possible. Press the welt back into place so the pocket back is pressed downward.<br />
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Now fold up the top edge of the pocket bag (the one with the outer fabric attached) and line it up with the edge of the top welt. Stitch this edge in place just like you did the bottom one and press.<br />
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Next we need to stitch down the little triangles at the sides of the welt. To do this, you'll need to fold the jacket back. I also pin it to keep it from shifting while I sew. Rather than backstitch, sew all the way forward across the triangle, then all the way backward. Stitch as close to the bottom of the triangle as you can. If you need to you can switch out to a zipper foot, but I've found that it's not too difficult to do with my regular foot.<br />
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To complete the pocket, sew down the side edges. Ideally you'd sew this seam in line with the one you just did on the triangle, but I've always done mine a bit to the side with no problem. You may want to round off the bottom to keep lint from accumulating in the corners of the pockets. <br />
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Trim away the excess - pinking shears are a good idea here, as lining fabrics tend to fray a lot.<br />
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Side note: when I closed up my jacket, I noticed that my pocket was too long and was in the way of the hem. So I shortened it at that point. I think this happened because I followed an entirely different method than the one given in the pattern. So be aware that if you're using this method with M6172, you may find that to be the case as well.<br />
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Now admire your functional pocket for a minute:<br />
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Then baste the opening closed again with a catch stitch. It's important to do this so that everything stays neat and lined up throughout the rest of the construction of the jacket.<br />
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Give it a nice press, and then go show everybody the gorgeous pockets you've made!<br />
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Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-69325585828280306462015-10-20T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-20T07:00:01.254-05:00Making the Flaps and Pocket BagsLet's give ourselves a break today and do some easy stuff!<br />
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For your flaps, you should have cut 2 of fabric and 2 of lining. The fabric pieces will probably need to be interfaced - I used ProSheer Elegance Light on mine because I wanted to retain some of the softness of the fabric.<br />
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Before sewing the lining to the outer, trim 1/8" off the lining pieces at the sides and bottom. Doing this will help the outer fabric roll to the underside once the flap is turned out.<br />
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Sew all the way around the sides and bottom. M6172 uses a 3/8" seam allowance here - make sure to check what your pattern uses. Because the lining piece is a bit smaller, it will pull up like this before turning:<br />
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Trim the seam allowance before turning. I do this with pinking shears to avoid getting a show-through seam allowance line when pressed. It also can sometimes eliminate the need to notch the curve, although I still had to notch these a bit.<br />
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Turn the pieces out and give them a good press, making sure that the outer fabric rolls to the inside so that none of the lining will show. Machine baste the tops closed at 1/4".<br />
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Now take the two remaining welt pieces and attach them to the pocket bag piece. Because of the way we did the welt, we only need to attach this on one side. Line the welt up with the pocket bag and stitch at the top and bottom of the welt with a 1/4" seam allowance. Then go back over the bottom stitching line with a zigzag. Alternatively, you could serge this bottom edge - but why get out the serger when the sewing machine is sitting right there?<br />
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Press these pieces as well, then set everything aside until tomorrow, when we will put it all together with our previously made welts.Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-81053691550835507892015-10-19T18:17:00.000-05:002015-10-19T18:17:08.823-05:00Making a Double Welt Pocket with Flap, part 1OK, at this point I've spent a good deal of time all weekend and again today, and I've finished up my jacket. Hurrah! Now to go back through all those pictures and sort them out into some coherent posts.<br />
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When last we spoke, we were at the point of making the welt pockets. You may remember that my sewing of all the vertical seams was a way of procrastinating about this task until I had the time, energy and focus. I readily admit that making welt pockets makes me nervous, no matter how many times I do it. (Oddly, bound buttonholes and cutting steeks in knitting do not.) So I never do this step unless I've got plenty of time and a clear head.<br />
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When I made my first M6172, I used the instructions given for the welt and I found it to be messy - hard to understand and a bit lumpy at the end. I've tried a few different ways of doing these and my favorite method is the one found in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Tailoring-Classic-Sewing-Perfect-Jacket/dp/1589236092/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1441661767&sr=1-1&keywords=tailoring" target="_blank">Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket</a>. So what I'm going to show here is basically lifted directly from the book. If any of my photos or explanations aren't clear enough, please refer back to this book as I find it to be very easy to follow.<br />
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I used my pattern piece from M6172 for the welts, and then cut them down. You'll want 4 strips 1.5" wide by the length of the pocket bag. Note that this will be about 2" wider than the pocket opening. The tailoring book says to cut the strips 1.25" wide, but since they'll get trimmed anyway, I like to give myself a bit of extra leeway. Fold them in half the long way with the right sides out and press.<br />
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Machine stitch each of these strips 1/4" from the <i><b>folded</b></i> edge with a longer stitch length - I used a 3.0. Then trim the raw edges to a scant 1/4" from the stitched line. When you arrange the welts on your jacket front, you'll be placing those stitched lines exactly 1/2" apart, and you want a little bit of empty space in between so things don't get crowded. The two strips below are arranged thusly.<br />
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Now pin these strips onto the jacket front, placing them exactly on your welt pocket markings. (You'll also want some kind of interfacing behind that welt. I used a lightweight non-fusible non-woven.) The folded edges will be at the top and bottom and the raw edges will be in the center with a bit of space in between. I only marked the ends of my welt openings - as long as your stitched lines are pinned on top of those end points, they should make a nice straight line over to the other side. Once they're pinned in place, check to make sure that the stitched lines are exactly 1/2" apart all the way across.<br />
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Mark the vertical ends of the welt box on top of the strips. These marks will be your guide for where to begin and end stitching.<br />
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Using a shorter stitch length (I used 2.4) stitch exactly on top of the previously stitched lines, backstitching at the beginning and end and starting and stopping exactly at those vertical marks. Below you can see that I've stitched the welt on the right.<br />
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Before going any further, flip your piece over and make sure that the lines you've stitched are 1/2" apart all the way across. If they are not, unpick and do it again.<br />
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HOWEVER: Since this pocket will have a flap that covers the bottom welt, you have a bit of leeway. My lines were not exact on one of my welts, and I decided to leave it to show you that you can still make a good-looking pocket in this style even if things don't match up perfectly. My "real" self would have unpicked, but I had to complete the pocket in order to show you that it works, and I'm not <i>that</i> fussy. Pick your battles, folks.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqbHdKL4rYZCVQV4ZxkC_XiQ08uvGOIxczgqBdpW2Uj-9MvnTHz_V2y7HuZxKETHSaYPO4ehJ0AZif3rNuq4soVowzZcCIFVtjo02O62ZJqZZupZF4nsIMS0XCd6rzIJUmBUKIbOQxzE/s1600/IMG_1431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqbHdKL4rYZCVQV4ZxkC_XiQ08uvGOIxczgqBdpW2Uj-9MvnTHz_V2y7HuZxKETHSaYPO4ehJ0AZif3rNuq4soVowzZcCIFVtjo02O62ZJqZZupZF4nsIMS0XCd6rzIJUmBUKIbOQxzE/s320/IMG_1431.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oops!</td></tr>
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Now cut open those welts along that center line, cutting a triangle at either end that goes to, but not through the stitching. Get as close as you can - it really does make a difference in how nicely the welt lays.<br />
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Take the piece to the ironing board and flip the welts to the wrong side one at a time and press. Here's mine with the first welt flipped in.<br />
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Then flip the second welt. They won't want to lay flat right now but that's OK - just press and steam them as well as you can. We're going to stitch them closed in a bit for further pressing.<br />
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Now, if you've been exact, you won't have any gaps at the sides. Here's my inexact welt:<br />
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See that little gap at the left? Without a flap this would be unacceptable. But the flap will cover it up, so not to worry.<br />
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Temporarily baste the welt closed with some silk thread.<br />
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Then give it another really good press to flatten everything out nicely.<br />
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Do all of this for the other front. Then go grab the adult beverage of your choice - you've earned it!Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-8969921083433514482015-10-16T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-16T07:00:08.451-05:00Sewing and Pressing the Vertical SeamsNo matter what I'm sewing, I rarely follow the order of the instructions. I tend to sew as many seams as I can before taking them to the ironing board to press. On a more involved project like a blazer, I also choose tasks based on how much time or energy (mental and physical) I have.<br />
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The other day, I wanted to sew but didn't have the energy and focus needed to move on to the welt pockets. So instead I sewed all the vertical seams of the body of the jacket (quite a few, since my pattern has princess seams) and the outer seam of the sleeves.<br />
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This is probably the least involved part of the process. Sewing these seams took me about 15 minutes. And then I spent another 45 minutes pressing each seam open on the tailor's board, clipping and shaping the body over the ham and seam roll.<br />
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I like to let the seam "tell" me how much to notch or clip. Once I've got a curved seam sewn and pressed, I can see how much needs to be removed for the seam allowance to lay flat. On the picture below, I removed the excess that was bubbling up.<br />
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I always press my seams 3 times: flat as sewn, then open on the tailor's board, then again from the right side. Because the front is gently curved, I did my final press over the ham instead of on the ironing board.<br />
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One tip I learned recently is that if your fabric tends to show the seam allowance when pressed from the right side, you can press the seam on top of the seam roll. I'm learning to love my seam roll; it's fiddly because it keeps rolling away, but it is a useful tool.<br />
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Once the front has the interfacing attached, the turn of the lapel needs to be steamed into place. This too is done on top of the seam roll, hovering the iron just over the fabric without actually touching it, and giving good blasts of steam. Doing this on top of the seam roll gives a very nice wrinkle-free turn to the lapel because the rest of the fabric from the front is being pulled down by gravity and out of the way. I had good success with butting my seam roll up against the edge of the tailor's board to keep it from rolling.<br />
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The lapel should tell you where to turn back; the fabric will want to turn just to the outside of the roll line.<br />
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Once the piece is steamed the lapel will lay open all on its own, as you can see in the following pictures.<br />
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After I've steamed both lapels, I like to check them against each other to make sure they're the same size. If they differ at all, I reshape to make them match.<br />
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Another thing I do at this point is to mark the hem lines. Later I'll be adding interfacing to the hem to give it weight, and I find it easiest to mark the line now rather than trying to measure as I add it.<br />
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That was a nice, easy afternoon of sewing. But now I truly can't go further until I get those welt pockets made. And to do that, I'll have to first cut out my lining pieces.<br />
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Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-81361905343435497142015-10-15T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-15T07:00:07.017-05:00About That Under CollarYou may remember me mentioning last week that I wasn't 100% satisfied with the machine tailored under collar I made. I got a lot of wrinkling on the outside after I steamed it into shape on the ham.<br />
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In retrospect, I shouldn't have trimmed away so much of the canvas interfacing. And I should have worked harder to position everything nicely to allow for turn of cloth. Honestly I think that is much harder to do with this technique than with hand tailoring, but I should have at least tried. I got too gung-ho about cutting away the canvas at 5/8" all the way around.<br />
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I considered making a new under collar using fusible interfacing. But I do like how the collar stand looks with this stitching. So I decided to see if I could press the piece into shape. I pressed, and I smoothed the bubbles into the crease between the stand and the fall:<br />
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And then I pressed and smoothed some more:<br />
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And I think that's acceptable now. Remember that this is cotton twill - if I'd used wool, it would have been even more cooperative! So I'm going to use this one, and just not pop my collar. (As if I would anyway!)Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-2486420994700961582015-10-14T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-14T07:00:06.399-05:00Taping the Roll LineThis is the last bit of tailoring prep we need to do before we can move on to construction!<br />
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Before we tape the roll line, we need to preshrink the twill tape. Soak it in hot water for 10 minutes or so, then squeeze out the water in a towel and let it air dry. Once it's dry, press it flat making sure <i><b>not</b></i> to stretch it as you press.<br />
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On your front jacket piece, mark the seam lines at the top and bottom of the roll line (i.e. at the neck and front edges). Pin one end of the tape at the bottom just at the seam line. Then lay the tape along the roll line without stretching up to the neck edge. Make sure that the tape is 1/8" inside the roll line - that is, toward the side seam. I wasn't paying attention last time and put one of my tapes in the lapel and then had to rip it out!<br />
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Make a mark on the tape where it crosses the neck seam line.<br />
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Then make another mark 1/4" below that mark:<br />
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Pull this lower marking up to the marked neck seam line and pin in place:<br />
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The tape is now 1/4" shorter than the fabric along the roll line. Stretch and pin the tape along the roll line so that the fabric along this line is eased in to the tape.<br />
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Remember that mark we made on the roll line 2" above the front edge seam? Transfer this mark to the tape as well. This is where your machine stitching will stop. That last 2" will be stitched on by hand only to the canvas so that it won't show when the lapel is turned back.<br />
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Now we are going to sew both sides of the tape to the jacket front. Start all lines of stitching at the neck edge so you don't get any torque between the two rows of stitches. Backstitch at the top and bottom of each line. I find it easiest to line the edge of the tape up with the 1/4" marking on my presser foot and move the needle to the right or left side as much as I need to for the stitching to be as close as possible to the edge of the tape. Everything stays more stable and there's less slipping when most of the presser foot is on the tape.<br />
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Once the tape has been attached by machine, hand stitch that last 2" with a fell stitch, sewing only through the tape and canvas.<br />
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If you wear the jacket with the collar popped, those lines of stitching will show:<br />
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But with the lapel folded back in its usual position, they're invisible, thanks to hand-sewing that last couple of inches.<br />
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If you've gotten to working with your canvas yet, you've probably noticed that it makes a big mess when you cut it! There are tiny flakes of canvas all over my outer fabric. I'm not going to worry about it until the very end, when I will give everything a good going over with the lint roller!<br />
<br />Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-5224468264330595942015-10-13T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-13T07:00:07.548-05:00Attaching the Canvas to the Outer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Before we can attach the canvas unit to the outer fabric, we must sew the front vertical dart if there is one.<br />
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Once the dart is sewn, trim it to 3/8", stopping 1" down from the point.<br />
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Press the dart open using your tailor board and clapper. That last 1" will get flattened into a triangle.<br />
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Shape the end of the dart over the ham with steam and a press cloth if your fabric needs one.<br />
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On M6172, the next instruction is to stay stitch between the notches on the side front seam. Do that now.<br />
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For this pattern the welt pocket opening crosses the front dart. The canvas needs to be trimmed away so that it won't interfere with the pocket opening. Take the original pattern piece and mark the pocket position on the canvas - it will only be a small amount.<br />
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Trim around this marking by 1/8" - 1/4".<br />
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Now place the canvas unit onto the back side of the outer fabric. Align the pieces at all edges and tuck the inside edge of the canvas under the dart leg. You may need to trim a bit of the canvas away to make everything lay flat - I had to trim some from the dart point. Pin the pieces together.<br />
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Check to make sure that the pocket opening marks are in a straight line. I had to adjust mine a bit. Here's how it looked before I corrected it:<br />
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Now hand baste all along the outer edges. You'll be sewing through the muslin and the outer fabric. You can also baste the canvas to the armhole edge if you want to, but it's not important. I did, just so I could sew one continuous line all the way around.<br />
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To keep the inner edge of the canvas from slipping around, loosely catch stitch the canvas to the dart leg. If you don't have a dart, skip this step.<br />
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That's it for today! Here's what you should have now:<br />
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Next time we'll be taping the roll line, at which point much of the tailoring is done and we'll move on to construction.Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-34880893419136194542015-10-12T07:00:00.000-05:002015-10-12T07:00:03.020-05:00Attaching the Carrier StripsWe are almost done assembling the inner structure! Can I get a woohooo?!<br />
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OK, take those muslin carrier strips you made and pin them to the canvas front. Pin to the side with the shoulder reinforcement.<br />
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Mark your pivot points for a 3/4" seam at the lapel point and where the shoulder meets the neck.<br />
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Using a zigzag stitch, sew across the shoulder, down the neck and all along the front at 3/4". Also sew the side front edge. (Remember that on my piece I have included the armhole, which will get cut away.) I used a 4.0 stitch width and 1.5 stitch length.<br />
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Here's how it will look on the back:<br />
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On the back side, trim the canvas out of the seam allowance, getting as close to the zigzag stitching as you can.<br />
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Now flip to the front and trim the muslin away from the zigzag on the <b>inner</b> side. You can see that at this point I have also removed the muslin from the armhole where it is not needed.<br />
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When you trim the muslin, leave 1/8" or so - don't get right up to the stitching.<br />
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Check your pattern piece and add any markings that have been covered during the process of making this interfacing piece. Also draw the roll line in place at this time.<br />
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At the bottom of the roll line, make a mark 2" up from the front edge seam line. We'll be using that mark later when we sew on the tape.<br />
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Next time: sewing actual fabric!!Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.com2