tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post3290756830686714352..comments2023-04-16T02:49:26.129-05:00Comments on today's agenda: A Tale of Two Blazers: A Comparison Between M6172 and S2446Gailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comBlogger40125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-26302945245362552752016-05-11T08:06:18.157-05:002016-05-11T08:06:18.157-05:00Thank you for your comments! I have to admit that...Thank you for your comments! I have to admit that I'm a little harsh on the rope shoulder because it's just not a look I like. At the time I was also disappointed because on the pattern envelope, the shoulder does not appear to be roped, and some of the photos I viewed of others' blazers did not have this feature. However, I did not read all the reviews - it could be that some people altered their sleeve caps to reduce this excess.<br /><br />That said, I have actually worn this blazer far more than I originally thought I would! It's become a favorite despite the less-than-stellar fit. I recently revisited this pattern (unblogged) and found that my fabric choice may also have had something to do with the difficulty in setting in the sleeve: my new blazer used a stretch sateen instead of the non-stretch twill of this version. Although there is still a little fullness at the shoulder of my new blazer, it's not nearly as much as this lavender one, and it went in much easier. (Also, I've made a lot of blazers over the last year so I'm much more practiced!) Always learning - I find all this to be so fascinating.<br /><br />My new blazer gave me a better appreciation of this pattern. The sleeve vent is really lovely, and I think the dart at the collar makes the collar construction so clever. For my purposes, I still like the McCall's pattern better, but it's always nice to have alternatives in one's pattern library. The body and lapel shape of this pattern suited my vision for my new blazer better than the McCall's did, and it was so convenient to have the pattern all ready to go!Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-18585856095872386402016-05-09T17:12:55.227-05:002016-05-09T17:12:55.227-05:00This is a very well written comparison of the two ...This is a very well written comparison of the two patterns, thank you. Please don't be too harsh on the look of your sleeve head. It’s referred to as a Rope Shoulder because the sleeve-head stands above the shoulder line as though draped over rope. As you have found out, with little, if any, padding in the shoulder, the rise is created by the upper sleeve being cut larger than the armscye (armhole). The excess cloth, plus the stitching and pressing of the seams between sleeve and shoulder create the ‘puff’. I would surmise this is the style look the Simplicity pattern drafters were aiming for. It's a shame you don't like it, as you have executed it well, and it looks very good on your blazer.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-50538888533094042582016-03-15T10:28:50.803-05:002016-03-15T10:28:50.803-05:00Hi, I'm reading this for the first time and re...Hi, I'm reading this for the first time and really appreciate your comparison which really pinpoints what I've wondered about for a long time. Thank you, Lynda (Toronto, Canada)Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-6609487018886050402015-05-24T08:41:36.936-05:002015-05-24T08:41:36.936-05:00Glad this was helpful for you :-) I have seen som...Glad this was helpful for you :-) I have seen some lovely versions of the Simplicity pattern out there; it just didn't work very well for me with all the fitting adjustments I have to do. I'll look forward to seeing one or the other of blazers from you!Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-54240437104600069782015-05-24T03:28:46.537-05:002015-05-24T03:28:46.537-05:00Gorgeous jackets, both of them. I have both patter...Gorgeous jackets, both of them. I have both patterns and have been trying to decide which one to tackle first and your post is so amazingly helpful. Thanks so much! Sew Hopefulhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04613468661739953359noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-24598034398450541792015-02-27T08:47:24.090-06:002015-02-27T08:47:24.090-06:00I did see your post when you made your jacket, and...I did see your post when you made your jacket, and I went back and read it again when I made this one. I think yours turned out SO much better than mine, and I wondered if it was because you used wool (which is more malleable than the cotton twill I used).<br /><br />You're right about the pattern not calling for adding a pleat for the lining! I didn't notice that because I had to add one in order to cut my lining on the fold, since I had a very curved center back seam. Also, since many of my fitting issues are in my back, I had learned about this before. <br /><br />I like the styling of both. I think the shape of the lapel can really change the look of a blazer, and that's what is inspiring me to try out different patterns.Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-59849850753134314262015-02-27T08:22:07.143-06:002015-02-27T08:22:07.143-06:00Gail thanks so much for this comparison. I must ad...Gail thanks so much for this comparison. I must admit in terms of style/design I like the Simplicity pattern better. Incidentally I did make the same pattern last year. I don't know if you ever saw it http://sewingprincess.com/sewingprincess/2013/12/very-british-herringbone-orange-wool-simplicity-2446-amazing-fit-misses-jacket/<br /><br />I did have the same sticky-uppy sleeve issue. my reasoning was i shouldn't have used a shoulder pad...but never compared the sleeve cap as you did.<br />I also had another problem...I stupidly forgot to add a pleat to the lining...so it feels a lot tighter than it did before adding the lining. Indeed the pattern instructions don't mention that!<br />Well sizing is also an issue. Having made another Simplicity pattern I knew I had to go two sizes down. So all in all I did like the pattern, but would change those two things if I were to make it again. <br />I've never tried any McCall's pattern...now I am curious ;o)Sewing Princesshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17337829909003253138noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-75993003097892596532015-02-21T12:25:51.870-06:002015-02-21T12:25:51.870-06:00Thanks, Sarah. I love my brown jacket too - it li...Thanks, Sarah. I love my brown jacket too - it lives on that dresser front so I can see it all the time :-) It is truly the best thing I've ever made. I will eventually post pictures of it on :-)Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-63360897622755974262015-02-21T12:24:25.820-06:002015-02-21T12:24:25.820-06:00Thanks, Kristin! I've been loving wearing the...Thanks, Kristin! I've been loving wearing the wool one, and I'm really looking forward to wearing the lavender one too once spring comes!Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-67168069547579221902015-02-21T11:43:43.533-06:002015-02-21T11:43:43.533-06:00Well, the time off was more a function of getting ...Well, the time off was more a function of getting a bit bored with blogging and not really having much to say anyway :-) Since I'm making a lot of repeats these days, I don't feel like I need or want to post about each item.<br /><br />And you're right, the McCall's blazer is much better fitted.Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-46621587037568580052015-02-21T11:41:39.796-06:002015-02-21T11:41:39.796-06:00Thanks, Stef!Thanks, Stef!Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-70583546493978497272015-02-19T14:26:57.212-06:002015-02-19T14:26:57.212-06:00Love your brown jacket - I'm really keen to se...Love your brown jacket - I'm really keen to see it on you! Beautiful work and such an interesting comparison! Thanks for being so thorough. Fabric Tragichttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04183274071484362265noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-87740118977014752872015-02-19T13:03:46.472-06:002015-02-19T13:03:46.472-06:00Wow Gail! I love comparison posts :) you did a gr...Wow Gail! I love comparison posts :) you did a great job tackling each one and giving us the pros and cons. I'm not much of a jacket wearer, but if I ever sew one I'm saving this review for reference :D They both look great, but that lavender one is soo pretty!Kristin at SunnySewing.comhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15445370690561159996noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-53579973039795915472015-02-19T12:13:13.205-06:002015-02-19T12:13:13.205-06:00You've been a busy tailor these past months - ...You've been a busy tailor these past months - no wonder you took time off from blogging! <br /><br />The McCalls blazer actually looks better-fitted even on the hanger, though appearance on the hanger can be deceptive, I know. So you've given me a good steer on pattern buying; now all I need are improved sewing skills. ;) <br />-- stashdragonAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-30663222372534205852015-02-18T23:43:14.107-06:002015-02-18T23:43:14.107-06:00You've got mad skillz!You've got mad skillz!Stefaniehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09081916135477167930noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-57989826353388960712015-02-18T15:26:00.477-06:002015-02-18T15:26:00.477-06:00Thank you, Marrie! I'm sure you could fix the...Thank you, Marrie! I'm sure you could fix the sleeve cap, and because you already have experience with tailoring the rest probably wouldn't be too hard for you. I do find it interesting how different patterns seem to work (fit-wise) for different people/body shapes. I'm hoping that in the next few months, I can report on Burda and Vogue too.Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-83182252680177939202015-02-18T15:23:31.929-06:002015-02-18T15:23:31.929-06:00I know - I'm so lame. Right now I can blame i...I know - I'm so lame. Right now I can blame it on the lack of good light. But that excuse is going to disappear soon (I hope!)Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-12318395259570092832015-02-18T15:22:47.567-06:002015-02-18T15:22:47.567-06:00Thank you! I've been teaching myself all kind...Thank you! I've been teaching myself all kinds of computery stuff lately, so I'm quite proud of my table :-)<br /><br />Ooooh, lucky you! What a great birthday gift! The pieces in the kits do come pre-cut to a size. I think you can order custom kits if you need to blend sizes, otherwise you have to order straight sizes, e.g. S, M or L. I find the sizing to be smaller than other companies. I'm a M up top in AC, and everywhere else, both RTW and sewing patterns, usually an XS or S. That said, the AC sizing fits me well because the shaping is curvy. The size M kit for a sleeveless shell I got fit me fine in the waist and high hip, although when I've traced patterns from the book I grade out at the hip to a L. <br /><br />If you have any of the AC books, take a look at the sizing charts and maybe even measure some of the sewing patterns. That's what I did to determine my size for the kits, and it's worked well for me so far.<br /><br />I'll look forward to seeing which you choose!Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-31112309341103042532015-02-18T15:15:46.464-06:002015-02-18T15:15:46.464-06:00Thank you, Morgan! I feel a teensy bit curmudgeon...Thank you, Morgan! I feel a teensy bit curmudgeonly insisting that a pattern I paid $1 for contain all the information :-) And I know I could have just chosen a position for the roll line and put it on myself. It just surprised me, since my frame of reference was the much more thorough pattern.Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-76376689460386443522015-02-18T14:34:03.684-06:002015-02-18T14:34:03.684-06:00I really enjoyed this post. I have the Simplicity...I really enjoyed this post. I have the Simplicity pattern, but think I'll pick up the McCalls based on the sleeve cap difference you discovered. I have a hard enough time with sleeves, no need to make it more difficult. ;)MarrieBhttp://www.purlsandpleats.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-48320366876312011572015-02-18T14:02:30.763-06:002015-02-18T14:02:30.763-06:00OK, so, I really need to see photos of you in both...OK, so, I really need to see photos of you in both blazers!!! You know, for science and whatnot? :)Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-73608875045263399482015-02-18T13:57:14.240-06:002015-02-18T13:57:14.240-06:00Great post - I love your grid comparing the two pa...Great post - I love your grid comparing the two patterns. I really believe that adjusting for length is necessary to get a good fit - if the depth isn't in the right place, no amount of adjusting circumference will fix it! And Amen to center back seams - I love them! I thought of you over the weekend because I received an Alabama Chanin gift certificate for my birthday. I'm having a hard time deciding which kit to purchase! I'm town between a skirt and a corset. Do you know if the fabric come pre-cut for a particular size?PoldaPophttp://www.poldapop.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-10967581821552998792015-02-18T11:37:15.814-06:002015-02-18T11:37:15.814-06:00Your brown blazer is simply gorgeous. I found that...Your brown blazer is simply gorgeous. I found that a Simplicity coat pattern I muslined last year was also missing the roll line. As a beginning coat maker, I found the prospect of adding my own off-putting. I wish pattern companies were as detailed as you with their descriptions!Crab and Beehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13392731276180198699noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-82722608057518643622015-02-18T09:15:41.964-06:002015-02-18T09:15:41.964-06:00Thanks, Monica! I have really fallen in love with...Thanks, Monica! I have really fallen in love with tailoring. I think that for me, knowing that I won't be able to finish the project quickly enables me to just take my time and enjoy all the handwork. I didn't feel rushed at all when I made the brown blazer.Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5942397277086320916.post-64247542060264302422015-02-18T08:59:28.417-06:002015-02-18T08:59:28.417-06:00These are so beautiful! I really want to try out h...These are so beautiful! I really want to try out hand tailoring a blazer.. Just need to find the time! Great job! I love the comparison as well. Very useful :)Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com